A fine pair of Palmela Castelão

Piloto’s Filipe Cardoso

My Australian quest for Pinosity took me to the country’s Grenache heartland, South Australia – specifically McLaren Vale and the Barossa.  In Portugal, I’d be looking to Bairrada’s Baga and Península de Setúbal/Palmela’s Castelão for Pinot Noir-like red fruits with a hint of earthiness.    My recent visit to Península de Setúbal produced a couple of lovely examples, both new to me.  Just like many great South Australian Grenache, they are sourced from old vines; similar soil types too.

Quinta do Piloto Reserva Tinto 2012 (DOC Palmela)

Piloto’s Filipe Cardoso sources the Castelão from old field blend vines which are over 55 years old.  Cardoso reckons it comprises around 80% Castelão with a soupçon of Alfrocheiro, Alicante Bouschet and Touriga Nacional.  Quinta do Piloto Reserva was aged for 14 months in French oak.  The nose reveals Castelão’s typically sweet, ripe red fruits.  In the mouth, subtle savoury spice, mineral and earth notes together with rustic tannins bring balance to the whole.  Attractive acidity too, which makes for a lingering finish. 14%

Horácio Simões Vinha Val dos Athos Castelão 2013 (DOC Palmela)

This is the red partner to the Boal/Semillon I raved about last year (which, incidentally, was very well received by the Hunter Valley’s winemakers).  It was sourced from low yielding (2t/ha) vines averaging 70 years old on sandy soils with some clay and limestone too; 20% was aged in old oak barrels. Intense red fruits – slightly earthy, woody raspberry, with redcurrant – has lovely freshness and persistence. Savoury, slightly smoky old vine tannins lend a touch of rusticity to a palate.  It’s a little drier, more delicate in its fruit expression, than the Piloto.  Very accomplished.  13.5%

Click here for my notes on other Castelão recommendations.