First taste: 2022 Madeira Wine Company releases from Blandys and Cossart Gordon

The new Madeira Wine Company releases from Blandys and Cossart Gordon include some real gems.  The younger wines were more expressive several days after first opening, whilst the remains of the 1977 Listrão from last year’s releases looked positively tropical.   The bottles may be mini, but the wines pack a punch! What a testament to Madeira wines’ staying power (and the warmer, drier climate of Porto Santo island – the source of the Listrão). 

Here are my notes on my 2022 release highlights; Madeira Wine Company’s portfolio is imported into the UK by Fells.

Cossart Gordon

Cossart Gordon Verdelho 2009 (Madeira)

True to house style, this is drier on the palate thanks to a touch less residual sugar than the Blandys Verdelho 2009 and delicious hazelnut skin and sappy cedar phenolics. Delicately honeyed redcurrant and steely grapefruit acidity sustain a long, linear finish with smoky retro-nasal resonance and a woody timbre.  20% vol, 7.4g/l TA, 0.48g/l VA, 62g/l Residual sugar, 2,000 x 50cl bottles

Cossart Gordon Malmsey 2008 (Madeira)

Sweet apple tarte tatin, caramelised orange and fennel seed-edged crème catalana to nose and palate.  Juicy, rolling acidity balances the sweetness and sweeps the spicy flavours along. Well done. 20% vol, 6.95g/l TA, 0.50g/l VA, 115g/l Residual sugar, 2,000 x 50cl bottles

Blandys

Blandy’s Sercial 2009 (Madeira)

Initially quite delicate with a sweetness to the subtly textural grapefruit-driven palate, with its pretty jasmine and mirin lift.  Going back it is more expressive, revealing spicy cedar and leafy tobacco notes.  The finish is saline with iodine and quinine undertones.  A lick of sweetness balances the palate and, hand in hand with the acidity, brings carry. 20% vol, 7.25g/l TA, 0.50g/l VA, 45g/l Residual sugar, 2,600 x 75cl bottles

Blandy’s Terrantez Meio Doce/Medium Rich 1978 (Madeira)

Pale mahogany with green glints and nose twitching struck match and grapefruity acidity to the nose.  In the mouth this compelling Madeira is all bottled electricity, with a racy, reverberating palate with spicy tobacco/tobacco pouch and aromatised fresh and singed grapefruit zest layers.  The racy backbone of acidity propels the spice and citrus flavours on an ultra-long, distinctly dry, arrow-straight finish.  Fabulous. 21% vol, 9g/l TA, 1.25g/l VA, 90g/l Residual sugar, 204 x half bottles, 1,206 x 75cl bottles, plus a limited number of large format bottles.

Blandys Bual 1972 (Madeira)

Subtle, intriguing on the nose, with sulphur undertones to the cinnamon-edged medlar pear and a touch of tatin caramelisation.  Mouth-watering, spiralling acidity makes for a kaleidoscopic palate of mouth-coating honeyed grapefruit and pear shot through with saffron, cedar, black cardamom and spicy apricot chutney.  Sensual and sensationally long, the flavours just keep motoring – a purring motor. 21% vol, 9.2g/l TA, 1.1g/l VA, 115g/l Residual sugar, 2,600 x 75cl bottles

Blandys Malmsey 2007 (Madeira)

An alluring nose of bread pudding with guava and cinnamon. In the mouth, it comes off rich and mellow rather than sweet, with sustained acidity and savoury rooibos tea, nuts and hazelnut skins.  Long and satisfying, with lovely balance.  20% vol, 7.8g/l TA, 0.50g/l VA, 125g/l Residual sugar, 2,600 x 75cl bottles