Picks of the bunch: SITT & Charles Hawkins tastings

Wednesday’s annual Specialist Importers Trade Tasting usually throws up some interesting wines.  I was not disappointed.
Here are my vinous highlights and from Charles’ Hawkins (CH) portfolio tasting that day.  My out and out stars?

From Australia, Yabby Lake Chardonnays (some of which I tasted at the vineyard a few weeks ago).

With satisfyingly complexity and balance, Herdade do Esporão Quatro Castas 2010 (Alentejo) and Quinta do Portal Portal D’Ouro 2010 from Portugal deliver plenty of bang for buck and I just love Quinta do Portal’s Reserva Moscatel do Douro. Quinta do Feital Vinho Verde continues to impress.

The Loire fielded some great Touraine Sauvignon Blancs that offer better value than some of those from the region’s more famous appellations.

And speaking of Sauvignon, in South Africa Thys Louw’s flair with the variety is readily apparent in Diemersdal Eight Rows Sauvignon 2011 while, from the south coast, two reds (new to me) from La Vierge impressed, including a Pinot Noir, which neatly leads me on to a very pleasant surprise of the tasting – Edoardo Miroglio Pinot Noir 2009 from Bulgaria.

AUSTRALIA

Yabby Lake Red Claw Chardonnay 2009 (Mornington Peninsula, Victoria)

Tasted at SITT and a few weeks ago at the vineyard while Tom Carson’s Pinot Noirs are very good, I must say, the Chardonnays are the real deal – the absolute stand out of the range for me.  The 2009 was a terrific vintage – very balanced.  This wine is tight, limey, focused and long – full of vim and vigour.  £17.95, Swig

Yabby Lake Red Claw Chardonnay 2010 (Mornington Peninsula, Victoria)

Though it shares the tight acid structure of the 2009, the 2010 shows more leesy (a bosky even) tang and texture, with saline and salt caramel notes.  A singular wine.  12.5% (Tasted at the vineyard)

Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 (Mornington Peninsula, Victoria)

Wow, this is seriously complex, taut and layered with kelp, smoky hazelnut and lime pith; flinty reduction lends a pungency.  A streak of limey acidity carries a very long, very focused finish.  Ever so youthful.  Terrific.

Yabby Lake Vineyard Block 1 Single Block Release 2009 (Mornington Peninsula, Victoria)

Heaven knows how it’s possible to leverage so many layers of flavour into such a tightly wound wine.  Anyway, it’s heavenly, with fabulous line, length & layer after tightly packed layer of hazelnut, salt caramel, lemon oil, grapefruit and lemon zest – little explosions of flavour, yet the whole remains super-taut.  Crackles with energy. Just stunning.  (Tasted at the vineyard)

Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 (Mornington Peninsula, Victoria)

Tasted at the vineyard this wine, which has yet to be released, just scooped trophies for Best Chardonnay, the Douglas Seabrook Trophy for Best Single Vineyard Wine of the Show as well as the Victorian Government Trophy for Best Victorian Table Wine in Show. More restrained – less bristling energy than the 2009s – the 2010 shows ripe citrus fruit (grapefruit and lemon) edged with salt caramel and hints of sour dough.  Long, well-focused and tight, it’s very good if not quite as compelling to me as the 09 and especially the 09 Single Block Release.

Jasper Hill Georgia’s Paddock Riesling 2010 (Heathcote, Victoria)

A muscular, dry Riesling with powerful citrus fruit and glistening minerals.  Long limpid, intense, finish.  RSP £24.25, Yapp Bros

Pikes Eastside Shiraz 2008 (Clare Valley)

A deep, inky hue, with a cool tang of clay to the nose and palate which, though plush with a touch of jube sweetness and cinnamon, remains resolutely dry and succulent with blackberry, plum and liquorice fruit.  Fine grained tannins make for a polished wine with classic Clare liquorice spice.  Seckford Agencies, RSP £17.99

THE LOIRE

Le Haut Chesneau Vielles Vignes 2010 (Touraine)

Richly fruity with ripe golden delicious and attractive herbaceous nuances – blackcurrant bud and bay leaf.  Well textured, with delicious savoury, leesy weight, it’s a good food wine and, according to   Ransomes Dock’s Martin Lam (standing next to me), sells well, especially now Sancerre and Pouilly Fume have gotten pricier. RSP £9.25, CH

Domaine Mardon Sauvignon de Touraine 2011 (Touraine)

Nettely,fresh and tight with good drive to the palate.  Nice concentration too. Very good if pricey at £11.50, Swig

Domaine Joel Delaunay TYDY Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Touraine)

An animated, well defined Sauvignon, fresh, bright and tangy with granny smith and golden delicious appley fruit.  Stevens Garnier  RSP £7.99-£8.99

Chateau d’Epire Savennieres 2009 (Savennieres)

Very classic – liked the wild flower sherry flora description so I’ll stick with that!  Edges into marzipan, but beneath there’s a bright, tight seam of mineral, limey acidity.  Long and complex.  Very good.  RSP £14.95, Yapp Brothers

Jerome de la Chaise Quincy 2010 (Quincy)

A tangy palate with a lift of blackcurrant bud,; quite leesy with good depth of flavour going through.  RSP £11.95, Yapp Brothers

Domaine Filliatreau Chateau Fouquet Saumur 2010 (Saumur)

Benchmark stuff, with coolly delivered bright, juicy red currant and berry fruit, fine tannins and elegant length.  RSP £11.25, Yapp Bros

PORTUGAL

Pocas Corda D’Ouro White 2010 (Douro)

This unoaked blend is flinty and mineral with cordite and “toast”-edged juicy, fresh melon fruit.  Interesting wine for RSP £7.39, Cachet

Quinta do Feital Auratus Alvarinho Trajadura 2010 (Minho)

A muscular but complex palate shows mineral laced stone and orchard fruits with subtly nutty depth and pear skin lift and texture.  Powerful and long.  Very good.  RSP £12.25, Indigo Wine.

Quinta do Portal Trevo 2011 (Vinho Verde)

As I’ve previously written, everyone seems to want a slice of Vinho Verde these days, including this well known Douro producer.  It’s a bright and breezy fresh white which I reckon would appeal to Muscadet fans who fancy something a little more perfumed.  The Loureiro component brings attractive sweet talc notes to nose and palate as well as a limey dash of acidity, which lends animation to its rounder pear/pear skin fruit.  Super drinkable.  Very well made.  RSP £7.99, CH

Quinta do Portal Colheita Branco 2010 (Douro)

Nutty and creamy with white asparagus yet with good underlying acidity for balance this is a good example of a Douro white.  Savoury and textured it’s very much a food wine.  RSP £11.95, CH

Quinta do Portal Portal D’Ouro 2010 (Douro)

Nice generosity and character to this entry level briar-fruited and floral red; smooth tannins and fresh, well-ingrated acidity make for lovely balance.  Smart buy at RSP £7.85, CH

Quinta do Portal Reserva 2008 (Douro)

With a couple of years bottle age and higher quality fruit, the Reserva has the spicy lift I associate with this cool vintage – esteva and eucalypt/  In the mouth it has a nice depth of wild red and black berry fruit with hints of saddle soap.  Drinking well already but good reserve in the tank.  RSP £14.95, CH

Quinta do Portal Grande Reserva 2007 (Douro)

Although 2007 also had a mild summer, the autumn was warmer and this vintage always shows great fruit purity.  This wine is no exception, with sleek red and black cherry and plum and liquorice layers.  Long and elegant with seamless tannins.  Very good.  Drinking well now and over 10 years or so. RSP £27, CH

Quinta do Portal Touriga Nacional 2009 (Douro)

I first tasted this wine last May (see here) and it’s blossoming, literally, revealing a distinctive orange blossom character which I first recall encountering when tasting the almost ridiculously pretty Quinta do Noval Touriga Nacional 2004 (see here).  Classic Touriga Nacional raspberry and chocolate notes bring depth, though the whole is lively, long and elegant.  My pick of Portal’s three single varietal wines in this vintage.  RSP £24, CH

Quinta do Portal Touriga Franca 2009 (Douro)

The sample I tasted on Wednesday was out of condition.  Here’s a note instead from a sample I tasted in December.  If you think Touriga Nacional is floral, Franca tends to be even more so – lovely rock rose and bath salts to this wine on nose and palate and, true to the variety, it seems to put on less weight than Nacional.  So there’s a certain austerity – a leaness – through the red and black cherried mid-palate and, where the Nacional’s tannins are fine, the Franca’s are quite sinewy.  The finish is quite tight with a dark Kalhua undertow.  Needs time to blossom….promising. RSP £24, CH

Quinta do Portal Tinta Roriz 2009 (Douro)

Another great varietal expression, with its very even delivery of fleshy, juicy, brambly fruit, lick of dried herbs, flattering smooth ripe tannins and vanillin oak.  Deliciously rich and forward, though it has the body to go some distance.  RSP £24, CH

Quinta do Portal Moscatel do Douro Reserva 2004 (Douro)

My panel awarded the 2000 vintage a gold medal and regional trophy at the Decanter World Wine Awards last year.  Because of the elevation and soils, Douro Moscatels are fresher than those from Setubal, more elegant than moreish, though I’d not trust me to leave a bottle unfinished!  Lovely freshness and (orange blossom and peel) perfume to nose and dancing, barley sugar palate.  It finishes long, controlled and elegant with a reverberating nuttiness.  Just lovely. RSP £16.40 CH

Quinta do Portal Moscatel do Douro Reserva 1996 (Douro)

Eight years older, the 96 is darker in hue and flavour spectrum with brown sugar and singed tarte tatin hints to its calvados fruit and, going through, calisson, toasted almonds and eggy Madeleine nuances.  Lovely balance, so there’s room for cake, now please!  Ab fab.  RSP £17.75, CH

Herdade do Esporão Quatro Castas 2010 (Alentejo)

Varietally, the picks of the bunch in 2010 were Aragonês, Tinta Miúda, Tinta Caiada and Alfrocheiro and this wine was my pick of the bunch at the Charles Hawkins’ tasting.  Wonderfully perfumed with violets to nose and palate and, though creamily fruited with dark chocolate notes to its succulent black cherry, a ravishing streak of minerality brings vinosity and precision – a juicy length. A great buy at an RSP of £12, CH

Herdade do Esporão Red Reserva 2009 (Alentejo)

A bright sweet berried but juicy wine with malty oak, cinnamon toast and fine grained tannins.  Well made if not the lift and interest of the Quatro Castas.  RSP of £15 CH

Herdade do Esporão Private Selection Red 2008 (Alentejo)

I selected the 2007 vintage for my 50 Great Portuguese Wines of 2010.  The 2008 vintage shares the poise and polish of the 07 – a modern, elegant Alentejo red with well defined, sleek blackcurrant and berry fruit, bay leaf, smoky oak and hints of leather.  Well integrated, the tannins are fine, quite seamless.  Approachable if very young  and primary; will benefit from a couple of years bottle age and offer plenty of reward over the next 10 years or so.  RSP £30, CH

Quinta do Tedo Rose Port NV

This rose Port has a considered quality, a delicacy, which distinguishes it from many of its peers which have a firm eye to the mixology market.  A subtle cranberry and red cherry palate isn’t in the least confected and has richness without warmth.  Well balanced.  Well done.  McKinley Vintners, RSP £21.50

SOUTH AFRICA

AA Badenhorst Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2011 (Swartland)

For such a young wine this offers lots of upfront funkiness/ earthiness to its tangy, honey licked quince fruit.  Good balance.  Well done.  £9.95, Swig

AA Badenhorst Family White 2009 (Swartland)

A complex, well structured blend of a beggar’s muddle of fruit!  Chenin Blanc (29%), Roussanne (23%), Grenache Blanc (10%), Viognier (11%), Verdehlo (2%), Chardonnay (11%), Colombard (5%), Grenache Gris (5%), Semillon (2%), Clairette Blanche (2%).  Spicy and textured with salt caramel and oyster shell to its muscular quince and stone fruits; bright and beautiful.  Lovely length and vibrancy, with plenty of layer and interest.  Swig, £24.50

Diemersdal Eight Rows Sauvignon 2011 (Durbanville)

A rich yet lively and aromatic Sauvignon with fresh popped pea pod, white peach and a hint of herbaceousness.  Weighty and persistent.  Delicious.  Rsp £14.99 Laytons

Carsten Migliarina Chardonnay 2010 (Stellenbosch)

This ex-Pont de la Tour sommelier has made a complex, textured Chardonnay, with toasty, flinty reduction/minerality and restrained citrus and stone fruits.  Quite forward but delicious now and very food friendly – I’m told served by the glass at Chez Bruce.  RSP £12.25, Indigo.

The Liberator Bandolier 2009 (Stellenbosch)

This 50:50 blend of Mourvedre and Syrah is deep in colour and flavour with plush, dark brambly, smoky, spicy fruit, ripe but present tannins and juicy, balanced acidity.  Satisfying.  Very good.  RSP £13, ABS Wine Agencies.

La Vierge Nymphomane 2010 (Hemel en Aarde Ridge)

Terrible name but ripe and plummy with a dusting of dark cocoa, this is an elegantly crafted juicy Bordeaux blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc) with lovely fluidity and fine tannins.  Very good.  RSP £17.85, The Wine Treasury

La Vierge Noir 2010 (Hemel en Aarde Ridge)

An earthy, gamey, savoury, plum and ripe red berry and wild honey scented Pinot Noir, ready to go, so I’m not sure where it’s going ageing-wise, but it’s quite lovely now.  With soft, velvety tannins and well integrated acidity, it makes its own shape, so again, good fluidity and lingering intensity.  RSP £22.95, The Wine Treasury

OTHER

Le Mas des Masques Silex Chardonnay NV (Aixen Provence, France)

Likened to top Burgundy, at £14.95 it’s a snip.  It certainly shows its mettle on a twangy, pungent struck match, smoky palate with tart greengage to its tight core and vin jaune-like smoked almond.  I’m not sure I could relax over a glass of this, but it would have me on the edge of my seat!  Swig

Edoardo Miroglio Pinot Noir 2009 (Thracian Valley, Bulgaria)

The 09 vintage has more lift, perfume and definition to its red and blackcurrant than the 2008 vintage (also shown), which it seamlessly combines with a savoury undertow.  The tannins are ripe and fine.  Impressive.  Swig, £13.50.