November Wines of the Month: Rutherglen Muscats – the perfect Christmas tipple?

The Downer Room at Australia House (pictured) might well be described as classic, grand, rarified even. All words which describe the Muscats of Rutherglen, Victoria, twenty-three of which permeated its very fabric with the essence of Christmas last Friday when I presented a masterclass to kick off Victoria Week.

This “strongly perfumed flavour” was a quality which, in 1896, lead Victorian viticultural expert Francois de Castella to identify Muscat de Frontignan as “admirably suited for the production of high class liqueur wines” (Handbook on viticulture for Victoria, de Castella).

As for the Christmas pudding smell, it’s an aroma which Steven Chambers (Chambers Rosewood) told me is a tell tale sign that Muscat has started fermenting. Swiftly fortified to stop the ferment and capture these heady aromas, it makes perfect sense that Rutherglen Muscats retain this signature Christmas pudding note. Even the older wines which, over time, through concentration and oxidation, have additionally developed spicy, nutty rancio layers – a rich, woody timbre.

All perfectly delicious qualities. But where Rutherglen Muscats are renowned for their lusciousness, indeed its winemakers pronounce them “the world’s richest wines,” the feedback from the tasting which excited me most was about the sophisticated balance of the wines – “not just big stickies,” but wines informed by terroir and the art and culture of blending. The enormous complexity and tremendous balance of the top Grand and Rare wines, especially given their dizzily high sugar levels, was much remarked upon. Even by Madeira’s latest producer, Paulo Mendes, which is saying something!

All in all, we had fun teasing out the impact of soil types, microclimate and house style as we tasted each of the Rutherglen classifications (Rutherglen, Classic, Grand, Rare) in turn. Here’s the list of wines and, while readers of these pages know that I’m a firm believer that fortifieds are not just for Christmas, there’s no denying Rutherglen Muscats are the perfect Christmas tipple, so I’ve included details of UK stockists where available (and it’s worth noting the Waitrose 25% off deal applies until 5 November on the Campbells Rutherglen Muscat).

Finally, to reinforce the not for Christmas point, I’ve included alongside select wines some mighty fine food and wine matching suggestions straight from the horses’ mouths – this is how their winemakers like to take their Muscat!

1. Pffeifer  Rutherglen Muscat – poached peaches with Muscat ‘n’ Raisin ice-cream – £15.99 (75cl) at The Wine Company, £15.50 at Australian Wines Online
2. All Saints Estate Rutherglen Muscat – semifreddo with pistachio, orange blossom, candied peel and jewels of Turkish delight £11.99 (half bottle) at Cairns & Hickey, £14.95 at Wine Utopia, £15.85 at Jascots
3. Chambers Rosewood Rutherglen Muscat, £10.99 (half bottle) at Invinity
4. Stanton & Killeen  Rutherglen Muscat – delicate white chocolate panna cotta with rosewater syrup (or over ice in summer) – The Halifax Wine Company £12.95 (half), Tanners £13.70 (half), £14.19 at Noel Young, £12.75 (half) at Oddbins.
5. Campbells  Rutherglen Muscat – chilled as an aperitif with prosciutto and melon – (half) £12.95 at Robersons, £11.99, 25% off deal until 5 November at Waitrose, £13.99 at Hennings, £12.85 at Amps Fine Wine
6. Morris  Rutherglen Muscat
7. Pfeiffer  Classic Rutherglen Muscat – chilled with gazpacho soup
8. Chambers Rosewood Classic Rutherglen Muscat
9. Stanton & Killeen  Classic Rutherglen Muscat – after-dinner drink with coffee, dark chocolate or a cheese platter – £16 (half) The Wine Society, £19.99 at Noel Young,  The Halifax Wine Company £18.95 (500ml)
10. Campbells  Classic Rutherglen Muscat – with a platter of washed rind cheese, preserved figs and walnuts – (half) £21.50 at Fortnum & Mason, £18.99 at The Wine Reserve
11. Morris  Classic Rutherglen Muscat
12. Pfeiffer  Grand Rutherglen Muscat – Dark choc truffles, or dark choc cake with coffee cream
13. All Saints Estate Grand Rutherglen Muscat – tart tatin with sugar caramel made with a mix of sugar, muscat and butter.
14. Chambers Grand Rutherglen Muscat – (half bottle) £23.75 at Wine Direct, £39.95 ay Invinity, £39.50, (half bottle), Great Western Wines
15. Stanton & Killeen Grand Rutherglen Muscat – Rich chocolate tart with raspberry sauce
16. Campbells Grand Rutherglen Muscat – with a panforte, £39.75 (half) at Amps Fine Wine 
17. Morris Grand Rutherglen Muscat
18. Pfeiffer Rare Rutherglen Muscat
19. All Saints Estate Rare Rutherglen Muscat – top-end dark chocolate of equal intensity & concentration
20. Chambers Rare Rutherglen Muscat – (half bottle) £179.99 at Invinity, £228.70 at Hedonism
21. Stanton & Killeen Rare Rutherglen Muscat
22. Campbells Merchant Prince Rare Rutherglen Muscat – Sipped with a strong espresso coffee and a decadent dark chocolate, (half) £56.95 at Amps Fine Wine,  £205/case of six 375ml bottles, excluding VAT & duty at BEL Wines 
23. Morris  Rare Rutherglen Muscat