Berry Bros & Rudd Autumn press tasting: South African range highlights

In Wednesday’s report of  Berry Bros & Rudd’s Autumn press tasting here I focused on stunning back vintages of Vouvray’s from leading Loire producer Domaine Huet, including a jaw-dropping ’45.

The merchant’s South African range, much beefed up since the acquisition of Richards Walford, immediately preceded the Vouvrays. And I have to say, alongside these towering Vouvrays, the Swartland Chenin Blancs and Chenin Blancs held their ground. No surprises for me, especially given the producers – Eben Sadie, Chris & Andrea Mullineux and Lammershoek (where Craig Hawkins presides as winemaker).

Having been out of the country and (most regretfully) missed The Beautiful South Tasting, I was also mighty pleased to catch up with the latest vintages of Sadie’s and Mullineux’s Syrah/Syrah blends. While these wines seriously impressed with their fruit purity and sheer verve, I was much less enamoured of the dusty, methoxypyrazene notes I picked up on the Oldenburg and Constantia Glen Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc/Cabernet blends.

Here are my Cape highlights:

Constantia Glen Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Constantia)

Despite its dash of Semillon (10%) from a long, cool vintage in a cool climate region this is a very classic expression of Sauvignon. Crisp and grassy with blackcurrant bud lift and a stony minerality. Nice buy at £11.50. 13.5%

Lammershoek Lam Chenin/Viognier 2012 (Swartland)

Hawkins is an advocate of early picking (see an earlier review of the 2010 here). This is no less than two degrees lower in alcohol than the 2010 and it’s most definitely one for lovers of bone dry styles. Not what one expects from Viognier! Still, I like the way the Chenin asserts itself on nose and palate with sweet apple, perfumed quince and honey, or is that the Viognier’s honeysuckle? 10.5% abv £11.75

Lammershoek Chenin Blanc 2010 (Swartland)

Now this is interesting. Since I last tasted it two years ago (my review here), this Chenin has developed most attractively. It retains its mineral acid drive and, while bone dry, has fleshed out some, becoming peachier (white peach), a little oily too, with calission notes to its quince core. Lovely complexity. Great bang for buck. 13.5% £11.95

Sadie Family Palladius 2009 (Swartland)

A very tight nose, with a classy veneer of vanillin oak. In the mouth this blend of Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Semillon Blanc, Semillon Gris, Verdelho, Palomino unsurprisingly delivers lovely complexity with its layers of lightly honeyed stone fruits and firmer conference pear/conference pear skin. The finish is long and impressively precise; both alcohol and Viognier are gracefully worn. 14.5% £35

Sequillo Red 2010 (Swartland)

It seems unlikely but it’s true. This, Eben Sadie’s collaboration with man of medicine Cornel Spies, seems more vibrant and perfumed than when I last tasted it a year ago (reported here). It has lovely, lingering intensity and joie de vivre to its inky red and black berry fruits. A very pure, expressive blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault. The oak (large format but 24m is worn very lightly). 14.5% £19.90

Sadie Family Columella 2010 (Swartland)

The debut 2000 vintage was a resounding hit. Still, Sadie being Sadie has tweaked it over the years (click here for my report of a 10 year vertical) and, with the benefit of earlier picking, some whole bunch and now partial ageing in foudre, this blend of 80% Syrah, 17% Mourvèdre and 3% Grenache is exceptionally refined, with very precise, firm but fine supporting tannins. Which allows its dusty, granitic/gravelly minerality to shine through its bright red and black fresh berry fruit. Excellent; broachable now but there’s much more to give. 14% £47.75

Mullineux White 2012 (Swartland)

This blend of 76% Chenin Blanc, 16% Clairette Blanche, 8% Viognier is very consistent indeed – consistently very good too! It’s rich and involving with honeysuckle, ripe apricots and juicier (balancing) comice pears. A hint of toasted marshmallow on the long finish reminded me of a tasting of this wine’s component parts (click here for the review), when I picked up marshmallow tasting the Clairette. 13% abv £17.95

Mullineux Syrah 2011 (Swartland)

The Mullineux’s Syrahs go from strength to strength. Love the wild note to the nose and palate, which in no way diminishes the purity of the juicy red and black berry fruit or this wine’s underlying minerality. The tannins are pleasantly ruffled – supple but with a deft touch of grip. 14% £19.50

Mullineux Granite Syrah 2011 (Swartland)

I loved the maiden 2010 Granite and Schist Syrahs (reviewed here).  The 2011s reminded me why. A swoonful “attack” to this silkily fruited, perfumed Syrah. Real depth behind, but subtly delivered; long, mineral and perfumed with just a hint of game to point you in the direction of its future development. Youthful and, with only one previous vintage, no-one can say for sure how it will develop but, at £64.50 I’d keep it at least a couple of years to allow it reveal itself more fully. 14%

Mullineux Schist Syrah 2011 (Swartland)

I was bowled over by this, my pick of the Cape reds. It’s a really confident, precise wine, with terrific (fresh) fruit and (fine but firm powdery tannin) drive; a pronounced slate minerality too. Violets as it opens up. Much to mine here – iron fist in (slightly) chainmail glove for now! A really exciting wine, seemingly denser and firmer than the Granite. Also priced at £64.50, I’d most definitely give this one a couple of years plus before broaching. 13%

Mullineux Chenin Blanc Straw Wine 2012 (Swartland)

Deep, bright gold in hue, with tremendous sucrosity to its syrupy dried peach and apricot fruit. Very primary now and, while it was difficult to assess balance having just tasted the Domaine Huet Vouvrays, there is no doubting the downright deliciousness of this hedonistic wine (282g/l). 10% abv. £20.50 (half bottle).