Q. do Portal 2017 Vintage Ports & Q. dos Muros Douro (M7) Tinto 2016
I am pleased that I had the opportunity to re-taste bottled examples of Quinta do Portal 2017 Vintage Ports. First, because the cask samples I tasted in June showed nowhere near as well; they were rather closed, lean and gawky. Second, they arrived together with a sample of Quinta do Portal Quinta dos Muros (M&) Tinto 2016. As the packaging suggests, this impressive new addition to the Douro wine range hails from the same quinta as Quinta do Portal’s deliciously vinous Single Quinta Vintage Port.
Quinta do Portal Quinta dos Muros (M7) Unique Vineyard Parcel Tinto 2016 (Douro)
Quinta dos Muros has been owned by the Mansilha family since the end of the 19th century. Like their other quintas, it is located in the Pinhão Valley. This wine – the first release – comes from the M7 parcel, which is comprised of 8 north-west-facing terraces with 3 or 4 lines of old field blend vines at 440-490m. Averaging 50 years old, the parcel features at least 29 different varieties, 2 of which – white varieties – were omitted from the ferment. Evidently, the fruit was most carefully selected because the resulting wine is classy and complex, with lovely intensity, structure and balance. It reveals sweet fruits of the forest – red, black and blue – and cedary oak to the nose and tightly focused palate. Fine grained tannins are beautifully integrated. Fragrant coriander seed spice, lifted white pepper and smoky, sooty, schistous mineral notes take hold going through, delicately balancing the sweetness. Lovely line, length and lift, with rich but persistent, perfumed fruit, spice and minerals to the back palate. Most refined. It was fermented in very small open tanks, then aged for 22 months in new French oak barrels. Just 1,280 bottles made. 14.5%
Quinta do Portal Quinta dos Muros Vintage Port 2017 (Porto)
This blend of 35% Touriga Nacional, 35% Tinta Roriz, 30% Touriga Franca comes from younger vines than the Douro red, but it is equally refined – really quite vinous. A fragrant, expressive Port to nose and palate, really beguiling, with sweet raspberry and blackberry fruit, blueberry and plum as it opens up, bitter chocolate, pine, mint, cedar, violets and, on day two, Early Grey notes. With fine powdery tannins, insinuating acidity and velvety fruit, almost pureed, it is exceptionally smooth and refined, with a sweetness, but also delicious persistence and lift. It is a pleasure to drink now. Hard to resist even. But has the structure to age into the mid-term. An unusual combination of elegance and hedonism, it is a charm offensive in a glass! 20,000 bottles produced. The grapes were harvested between 12-19 September, then macerated in stainless steel lagares and vats with temperature control. It was bottled two years after picking, having spent one year in old barrels. 122g/l residual sugar; 20% abv
Quinta do Portal Vintage Port 2017 (Porto)
Deeper in hue and much firmer in structure with no little tannic grip and brooding fruit, this is a much more conventional Port. The tannins are sturdy and the palate deep and spicy rather than lush, with concentrated reserves of coal-edged, well defined blackcurrant, blackberry and blueberry fruit and balanced acidity. Chocolate and pronounced bergamot on day two. Although it has a couple of grams more residual sugar, with chewy tannins to the finish and liquorice spice, it tastes drier. Mostly sourced from the Pinhão Valley, the grapes were harvested 7-22 September, then fermented and macerated in stainless steel lagares and vats with temperature control. It was bottled two years after picking, with one year spent in in old barrels. 124g/l residual sugar, 20% abv, 20,000 bottles. Promising; built to age.
Other Vintage Port 2017 reports
Click here for my report on Symington Family Estate Vintage Port 2017
Click here for my report on The Fladgate Partnership Vintage Port 2017
Click here for my report on Niepoort Vintage Port 2017
Click here for my report on Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 2017
Click here for my report on Ramos Pinto Vintage Port 2017
Click here for my report on Churchill’s Vintage Port 2017, with a report of a vertical tasting back to 1982
Click here for my report on Kopke & Burmester Vintage Port 2017