Portugal is always full of surprises.  Take this Sintra estate.  It’s owned by Baron Bruemmer (pictured) who, aged 96, founded his first vineyard – Europe’s western-most vineyard at that.  103 in November and he’s still going strong, as is the estate whose range encompasses the historic Colares DOC as well as a smattering of French grapes.  This Chardonnay blew me away.  Like Bruemmer’s garden it has classical lines – a fabulously taut frame of acidity in the case of the wine (rose beds in the garden) which, together with its classy, subtly smoky oak, brings terrific structure, precision and finesse. And it boasts tropical hints – palm trees in the garden, juicy rock melon and zesty lime in the wine.  A salty minerality speaks of the vineyard’s location a stone’s throw from the sea.  All in all a very exciting Chardonnay which will be stocked by Lisbon’s Estado d’Alma.  13%

No doubt with the help of cool Atlantic influences Casal Santa Maria also makes a promising Pinot Noir.  In Mornington Peninsula’s pronounced maritime climate Pinot Noir flourishes Down Under and this example from Ocean Eight beautifully reflects Mike Aylward’s delicate touch.  It’s a fragrant Pinot with lovely spicy lift and forest floor (dried pine needles) to nose and palate.  Predominantly red fruits dance brightly over a long, persistent palate – really animated, fine and silky.  A multi-faceted, jewel-like Pinot.  13.5%