New opening: The Sign of the Don Bistro & Bar, the City of London

Some 13 years ago, Robyn and Robert Wilson opened The Don. Next week sees the launch of The Sign of the Don wine bar and bistro next door.

Named after Sandeman’s iconic logo, the Port & Sherry shipper aged barrels and bottled its wares here in the heart of the City of London for some 200 years.

So it makes perfect sense that its former cellars on St Swithins Lane, a stone’s throw from Bank Station, should be connected by a tunnel (pictured, now blocked) to the Thames. In times past, barrels would be rolled out from the ship, along the tunnel and into the cellars.

The tunnel, which was only recently discovered, is but one of the many very attractive nods to the building’s past life in its current restaurant incarnation. Cork is in abundant evidence – from the bar, to the flooring, to the supports for the antique stencils which decorate the walls.

As a chef might deconstruct a dish, the interior designer has deconstructed barrels to great effect. Dynamic ironwork and wooden staves are used to good effect throughout. The Wilson’s impressive cork screw collection appears, suspended in glass.

And naturally, I was drawn here (indeed invited to a sneak preview of the new bistro) to explore a Modern British menu and wine list which draws on the building’s Spanish and Portuguese heritage.

Though the Spanish and Portuguese wine offering is quite limited, the by the glass selection of Ports impressed. In particular, I was delighted to see a 10 year old (Taylors), 20 Year Old (Sandemans) and 30 Year Old (Offley) Tawny Port by the glass, plus a couple of mature Vintage Port options.

The Sandemans 20 Year Old paired most successfully with PX Cancan (pictured) – sherry-marinated figs with marscapone (and wonderful PX sherry cubes!) Much as I love Portuguese custard tarts the combination with fresh Seville orange segments (I had expected a syrup or candied oranges) didn’t come off, though it then became clear why our waiter had cleverly suggested Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling 2011 with the dish.

However the suggestion which blew me away came from the Wilson’s very own New Zealand Estate. Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Homage Syrah 2007 showed great power with precision, concentration with freshness and lift. Sourced from cuttings of Syrah from Jaboulet’s famous La Chapelle vineyard, Hermitage, this the flagship red is one of 40 wines available by the glass and is well worth a look.

Since we had fish mains, the Syrah was enjoyed as a between courses breather. A generous, moist monkfish tail with sweet, pungent roast parsley garlic butter won our vote over the daily special, sea bass with wild mushrooms and artichoke puree.

Continuing the backwards trajectory, I can recommend the crisply crumbed trio of Mrs Sandeman’s croquetas (Jabugo ham, salt cod & mushroom). The bechamel sauce is a (rich) twist on Portuguese croquetas, so don’t expect the same pungency from the salt cod (which for some will be an advantage).

Tender grilled octopus with chorizo and chickpeas had heft and a deft touch of paprika spice, again the portion generous. Loved the pretty sherry glasses and their contents – the bone dry, salty, fresh cut apple kick of Hidalgo Manzanilla La Gitana and the sweeter, nuttier Sandeman Sherry Original Dry Don Medium Dry.

Incidentally, the bar (upstairs but on the ground floor) has a staggering list of gins and single malt whiskys, which might well detain a St Swithins passer-by for some time. All told, a convivial and atmospheric addition to the City’s wine bar scene; attractive private dining rooms too.