l’enologa – Italian heritage, Mildura born

On the banks of the Murray – Elizabeth Marwood of l’enologa

As you may have spotted, I am a becoming a fan of Southern Italian varieties Fiano and Aglianico in Australia.  Here’s another exciting new name conjuring with these Campanian grapes – Elizabeth Marwood of l’enologa. 

Like me, Marwood studied law.  But she gave it up much more swiftly, sensible woman, switching after a year to winemaking.  She puts the move down to her agricultural background – “my parents were wheat and sheep farmers in Great Southern [Western Australia], so it was going to be something agricultural, but not wheat and sheep.”

A vintage at West Cape Howe showed her the way.  Marwood “loved it.”  She subsequently worked at Forest Hill and Cape Vale.  Then came a yen to travel, “but not do nothing.”  The Slow Food Movement’s University of Gastronomic Sciences in Italy fitted the bill; it was the perfect springboard for travels around Italy and Spain.

Returning to Australia in 2009 when jobs were fewer and farther between, Marwood took a job at Qualia, a large contract winemaking facility in Murray Darling where she still works.  She admits that she had never seen herself working there because of the “massive stigma” attached to the region – “people still see it as a bulk region.”  Looking back, the winemaker reckons it has been “an invaluable learning experience,” plus, she adds, “objectively, there are some lovely wines…you have just got to give it a chance.”  Which is why Marwood never volunteers that she is from the Murray Darling when she makes sales calls to restaurants.  The region needs a foot in the door first….

Italian heritage – Marwood’s packaging

The winemaker’s opportunity to work with Fiano came up a few years ago when Qualia made a few vintages for Naked Wines.  She had no idea how to go about it and was “freaked out” by the slowness of the ferment.  But fell in love with its “awesome texture.” – 

As for making her own Fiano under the l’enologa label – the first in 2015 – it came about because Italo-grape-phile Kim Chalmers called to ask if she wanted some grapes.  She jokes the pair fell in at a local mothers’ group, when everyone else was drinking coffee and they were into wine.

Speaking about both Fiano and Aglianico, she firmly believes that “the great thing about these varieties is that they are the right varieties for the region because they love hot weather.”  Why, she asks, make a Shiraz Cabernet “which isn’t suited to the climate when you can make something like Aglianico and make it our own.” 

Mildura (Murray Darling) born – Marwood’s packaging

Production of the Fiano has almost doubled since 2015, up to 130 cases in 2016.  Her Aglianico and Sangiovese Rosato sit at around 35-40 cases.  The wines sell out locally.  She believes that perceptions of the Murray Darling are just starting to change as a result of the success of Italian grapes.

Other boutique producers working with the region’s fruit include locally-based Donna Stephens at Cappa Stone, Bill Downie’s and Jason Searle’s otherwise Yarra/Mornington Peninsula-centred brand Save our Souls, Yarra-based Patrick Sullivan and Geelong’s Lethbridge Wines (Ray Nadeson). However, Marwood and Chalmers (who joined the tasting) agree that the region would benefit from more producers.  Not just people, adds Chalmers, but “more tastings and cellar doors…we need to talk about the Murray Darling…be loud and proud.”

Marwood’s wines and her classy “Italian heritage, Mildura born” Aglianico packaging certainly put the varietal and regional marriage out there.  Here are my notes on her wines, which are made at Chalmers (Qualia’s smallest press is 70 tonnes):

l’enologa Fiano 2015 (Murray Darling)

Marwood did two picks of the Fiano, 7 days apart (and left a bit of the late pick out of the blend).  The wine was made with no adds bar sulphur.  All 690 litres were basket pressed (the late pick was left on skins overnight), fermented and aged on lees in steel barrels, then fined not filtered.  It’s a very textural, complex Fiano with perfumed quince, hints of pear skin and savoury sour dough.  Pronounced (attractive) bitter almond notes sing Finao’s tune strongly through the finish.  Very good.  12.5%

l’enologa Fiano 2016 (Murray Darling)

Though the alcohol also reads 12.5%, the wines differ by a degree in alcohol.  The 2016 is in a brighter, zestier style which is more attuned to Marwood’s original plans, though she likes the body of the 2015.  With more tropical citrus, it has pineapple and lively pink grapefruit with intriguing, notes of fennel seed, pear skin/nutmeg and orange oil on a lingering finish.  Chalmers reckons the green almond note will come with time in bottle (they are holding back Fiano for a year prior to release).  Good.

l’enologa Sangiovese Rosato 2015 (Murray Darling)

The Sangiovese underwent 24 hours skin contact and was fermented on solids for a dry, savoury, textural “brosé” (man-friendly!) style.  Lots of character here on a very savoury palate with Fauchon Herbes de Provence (takes me back to the pot I bought my mum back from inter-railing a LONG time ago), Aperol and coltsfoot notes.  Fruit sweetness/body without the fruit (or residual) to the mid-palate, which makes for a silky mouthfeel.  Balanced acidity (all natural) teases out the finish.

l’enologa Sangiovese Rosato 2016 (Murray Darling)

It is water melon pink and water melon perfumed, with a fruitier if crunchier palate of ripe cranberry.  Very even, persistent acidity lights up the fruit.  As Marwood freely admits, “it’s a totally different wine” but, addressing the stylistic differences of 2015 and 2016 (across the range), she points out  she is not chasing consistency year after year, as opposed to “trying to make wine which is true.”   It’s about no adds and working with the vintage.  The 2016 was picked a little earlier than the 2015, before it rained, otherwise she would have picked it later and expected it to have fermented for longer.

l’enologa Aglianico 2015 (Murray Darling)

This Aglianico is a blend of two different clones – Aglianico del Vulture MAT 2 & Aglianico del Taurasi MAT 3; it was aged for 6 months in 3 year old barrels.  I like its dusty, savoury nose of sandalwood and coltsfoot/liquorice with glimmers of blueberry and rhubarb.  All of which follow through in the mouth which has an attractive, subtle tension of sweet and sour.  Sandy tannins put me in mind of old vine ‘warm climate Pinot Noir’ Grenache.  Similarly this wine has a softness with structure and an approachability with complexity.  Very good.

l’enologa Aglianico 2016 (Murray Darling)

Once again, reflecting the vintage, this is the prettier wine – lighter, very perfumed with delicious fruit spice, liquorice and incipient leather – an intriguing combination.  Delicate sandpaper tannins lend gentle grip.  This more translucent, red-fruited example – think pomegranate – has a wash of mineral acidity which makes for a fresh, persistent finish.  Lovely.