John Duval on the “testing” 2011 Barossa vintage, plus latest releases including the maiden white

This week I’ll be posting more video interviews with Australian winemakers about the 2011 vintage, focused on the Barossa, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley and Margaret River.  Today, it’s John Duval’s turn to give the low down on the Barossa, South Australia.

When I visited in July, the impact of the rains was more visible in the Barossa than in the McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills – some fruit had simply not been picked.  It never got ripe and disease pressure took its toll.

While it helped that some of Duval’s fruit was sourced from the earlier ripening southern end of the Barossa, he says the key to 2011 was “being on top of vineyard management.” Duval is pleased with the freshness, vibrancy and elegance of his wines.  It’s a quality to which he aspires irrespective of vintage and successfully so, as you’ll see from my tasting notes below.    I find his reds wonderfully lithe and the gossamer-like maiden white blew me away.

Click here for my video interview with Duval.  And if you missed last week’s video interviews, click on the following links for Clonakilla (Canberra District, NSW), William Downie, Nick Farr of By Farr & Steve Flamsteed of Innocent Bystander for Gippsland, Mornington Peninsula, the Yarra Valley and Geelong and Shaw & Smith for the Adelaide Hills.

John Duval Plexus MRV 2010 (Barossa Valley)

Duval’s light, elegant touch is readily apparent.  This blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier is subtly spicy with a dash of cinnamon to its well-defined bright and tangy pear and stone fruits.  Fresh, well integrated acidity makes for a limpid, lingering, mineral finish.  Just dances over the palate.  Impressive. 13%

John Duval Entity Shiraz 2007 (Barossa Valley)

If 2011 was testing because of the rain, 2007’s challenge was the double whammy of frost and drought. This early, low cropping year produced plenty of brawn but not so here.  This is a supple, seamless Shiraz, shot through with layers of blackberry, blueberry and dark spice. As long as it’s rich and deep.  Sumptuous yet beautifully balanced.

John Duval Plexus SGM 2008 (Barossa Valley)

Ripe, fleshy layers of lithe red and black fruits are gently supported by fine, powdery tannins, making for a smooth but textured red.  A rich, warm, glow of a wine, which retains panther-like line and grace.

John Duval Eligo Shiraz 2008 (Barossa)

Selection for this, Duval’s top red, starts in the vineyard, not barrel and fruit is sourced both from the Barossa Valley and Eden Valley’s more elevated climes.    It’s a fabulously concentrated, dark Shiraz, loaded with blackcurrant, blackberry and liquorice.  But not at the expense of freshness.  With its refined long tannins and beautifully integrated oak, it’s remarkably poised.  Not easy for a Barossa Shiraz to follow the cooler climate Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier in a line up but this intense not dense powerhouse pulled it off with style.

John Duval Plexus SGM 2004 (Barossa Valley)

With several years under its belt, the 2004 Plexus is developing delicious savoury layers of fat roast chesnuts and leather to its sweet and silky cinnamon-edged blackberry and blueberry saturated palate.  Smooth, ripe tannins make for a sensual red, but there’s plenty of detail to snag your attention, not least a wash of mineral acidity to the long and lingering finish.  A glorious expression of the Barossa. (Tasted in July).