David Lemire MW talks vintage 2011 in Adelaide Hills, “a race between ripeness & botrytis”

So far, this week’s 2011 vintage reports have focused on New South Wales (Clonakilla) and Victoria ( with reports from William Downie, Nick Farr of By Farr & Steve Flamsteed of Innocent Bystander).

Today’s video focuses on the Adelaide Hills, further west, in South Australia.  Click here for my video interview with David Lemire MW of Shaw & Smith about a vintage which he describes as “a race between ripeness and botrytis.”  Lemire’s views on the national surplus are interesting too.

As you’ll see, it was a year of thrills and spills with “Sauvignon the star of the show” (see my tasting note below), no Shiraz and a measly 10% of the usual Chardonnay crush – Smith & Smith M3 lovers will need to be BMW M3 quick to get their hands on this vintage!

When I visited in July (cellar door tasting room pictured), owners Michael Hill-Smith MW and Martin Shaw told me crop losses had been even worse for others since, as Shaw observed “most Australians are not geared up for it [high rainfall during the harvest].”

Spelling out the advantages of hand harvesting and sorting tables, Hill-Smith said “because we still hand pick, we could leave anything we didn’t want in the vineyard so, with Sauvignon Blanc, we picked lots less fruit but what we did pick came through the door clean, albeit 6 weeks later than previous years and 2 weeks later than average.”

Here are my notes on the wines (& contact Liberty Wines for stockists):

Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2011

A pale hue with a greenish tinge and soaring aromatics give the game away.  This is an intense, lipsmacking and linear, but by no means skinny, Sauvignon.  Vividly etched with passionfruit, pea pod and hints of bay leaf, Hill-Smith told me they don’t normally include pressings but, this year, a small percentage of press wine was included.  Great (100% natural acid) line makes for a well focused, persistent finish.  A cracker.

Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay 2009

Rich layers of nougat, peach and fat, ripe lemon zest make for a complex, fleshy Chardonnay.  Adelaide Hill’s tight acid keeps it in check and the finish is savoury and long.  Satisfyingly chunky.

Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay 2010

A cooler year makes for greater freshness and finesse – love the slippery, sleek’n seamless delivery of this M3, which shows white peach, nectarine and melon.  Subtly oaked its long, layered and lingering.  Youthful, primary but poised, it has all the ingredients to age beautifully.

Shaw & Smith Pinot Noir 2009

Only 300 cases of this relatively new release and, for Hill-Smith, while it’s still work in progress (next year he might experiment with a bit of whole bunch fermenting), “it’s moved away from being completely simple”  Couldn’t agree more.  Deeply coloured this is a bosky, earthy Pinot with beetroot, cheroot and five spice. It just lacks a little length and perhaps lift (it’s a 50:50 blend of clones 777 and MV6), but no doubt that’ll come with greater vine age, and maybe some stems!

Shaw & Smith Shiraz 2009

This is a favourite Aussie cool climate Shiraz, consistently good and the 09 is no exception.  Fermented on c. 1% Viognier skins there’s plenty of lift and layer with top notes of five spice and eucalypt and darker, meatier Szechuan pepper, clove, smoky bacon and mocha to its concentrated sweet boysenberry and juicy blackberry fruit.  Ripe but present tannins frame the fruit and lend texture.  Lots to like.