Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon: a vertical

I’m starting to ponder my selection for July’s Wines of the Month which prompts this report of a vertical tasting of Howard Park’s flagship Cabernet Sauvignon (named Abercrombie after owner Jeff Burch’s great grandfather since 2005). 

The most recent (2008) vintage of this Margaret River/Great Southern blend is one of my June Wines of the Month, together with Jim Barry Florita Riesling 2009 (see here). 

First released in 1986, Abercrombie is made only in exceptional vintages from the top 1% of available Cabernet Sauvignon – literally the cream of the crop.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2008– the f word came into play here, in fact more than once, for this is fragrant, with beautiful freshness and fabulous fruit purity (cassis and black olive), supported by fine tannins and subtle cedary oak – an elegant wine.  Jeff Burch explained he’s using the kit he bought for Marchand and Burch Pinot Noir (a wine he makes in collaboration with Burgundy’s Pascal Marchand).  This meant that, in 2008, Abercrombie fruit underwent even more rigorous selection across the vibrating sorting table, resulting in less petioles (leaf stalks), so finer tannins (and that beautifully pure fruit).  And the tannins are also finer because the wine was fermented in small, open topped stainless steel tanks with twice daily aerative pump overs.  There’s a little less new oak too (40% compared with 50% in 2007).  Top notch.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 – a much firmer, more extracted style which threw me a little when I tasted it last year at Howard Park.  It’s more expressive now, its concentrated black fruits starting to unfurl together with underlying dried herb notes.  With ripe but robust tannins this is a powerful wine built to last. Very good.  Needs time.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 – drinking well now this lithe, long, fine tannined Cabernet shows glossy cassis, with some savoury black olive, cedar and toast.  Lovely balance.  Very good.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 – while this shows more savoury black olive in the mouth and on the nose, there’s plenty of power here.  Chunky fruit supported by firm, ripe tannins suggest this will deliver many more years of pleasure yet. Good/very good.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 – with 9 years under its belt this is blooming.  Expressive with savoury layers of dried herbs, black olive and dark chocolate swathed by black berry and currant fruit; a long finish is underpinned by ripe but firm tannins. Excellent.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 – a little tarry initially, dried herbs emerge as it opens up in the glass, together with briary fruit.  Mid-weight, with fine tannins and fair persistence. Good.

Howard Park Abercrombiecabernet Sauvignon 2007 is £147 for 6 bottles (£24.51/bottle) at Bibendum, Howard Park’s UK importer, who I notice also stock the maiden Madfish Gold Turtle Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 which I rated highly when I tasted it at Howard Park last October (you can read the report of my visit here).  It costs £70.50 for 6 bottles (£11.75/bottle).