From grisly to Gris, Australian Pinot Gris

At January’s Australia Day Tasting I set my compass for the road less travelled, the focus of an upcoming Alternative Australia Expert’s Choice for Decanter Magazine.  The very first wine which I tasted – Tasmania’s Bay of Fires Pinot Gris 2014 – scored high, but failed to make the cut for said selection because it’s not listed retail.  So instead, I shall share it with you here!

Not least because the Pinot Gris wines which I tasted that day were not only consistently very good, but also pretty interesting.  This colour mutation of Pinot Noir has, like Burgundy’s great red grape, really matured since my first visit Down Under in 2004.  Back then, wherever we were and, by the way, we were everywhere (Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria, Tasmania, New South Wales), Pinot Gris or Grigio – rather Grisly in some cases – was produced with a flourish.

Of course it was the new kid on the block in 2004, the first year in which it registered in official planting statistics. Since then its hectarage has increased more than tenfold, from 328.64 to to 3,767 hectares, catapulting it into Australia’s top ten most planted grapes varieties – no longer is it allowed to compete solo in Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show (on which note I should add it’s being used to great effect in some quirky typically creative blends).

It seems to me that cooler climate regions are the place to look for premium examples of the variety, which makes sense given its relatively low acid profile.  And I’m most definitely more attracted to the Pinot Gris as opposed to Pinot Grigio styles, where texture is enhanced with wild yeasts, lees, perhaps even skin contact.  Judicious use of oxidative handling might feature too, taking the emphasis off the fruit and bringing out nuttier, more savoury characters.

Here’s my note on the Bay of Fires, which perfectly showcases Tassie’s intense, pure fruit and terrific acid structure.

Bay of Fires Pinot Gris 2014 (Tasmania)

Exuberant sweet pear on the nose with a touch of flint follows through on the palate, together with crunchier, perfumed Asian pear.  Naturally fermented parcels bring mouthfeel and weight which, very deftly, balances the taut beam of acidity which propels its long, arrow straight finish.  Delicious.  13.5% abv

And here are some other great examples of Aussie Pinot Gris to watch out for: Riposte by Tim Knappstein Stiletto Pinot Gris 2013 (Adelaide Hills), Tim Adams Pinot Gris 2012 (Clare Valley), Logan Weemala Pinot Gris 2013/2014 (Orange), The Lane Vineyard Block 2 Pinot Gris 2013 (Adelaide Hills), Eden Road The Long Road Pinot Gris 2013 (Canberra).