Fonseca Port Bicentenary dinner

Marshalled, be-stickered and ready for action, decanters of fine Fonseca Port

I felt honoured to attend Fonseca’s bicentenary dinner at The Wallace Collection on Wednesday. The gallery is home to a world class armoury but the big guns of Fonseca were far from over-shadowed! CEO Adrian Bridge, Chief Winemaker David Guimaraens and Chairman Alistair Robertson addressed us in turn – Bridge on history, Guimaraens on product, while Robertson re-galed us with some lively anecdotes.  Grand surroundings, grand Ports but it was a relaxed, happy affair.

Former military man Bridge reminded us that Fonseca was established in a momentous year – 1815 – the same year as the Battle of Waterloo.  It marked the Duke of Wellington’s triumph over Napoleon, ending 26 years of conflict between France and the European powers during which time Wellington lead an allied army of British and Portuguese soldiers during the peninsular campaigns.  No prizes for guessing why Fonseca is celebrating its bicentenary with The Waterloo Edition Finest Ruby Port (reviewed here, together with Fonseca’s Bicentenary Crusted Port release).

It’s an imperial – equivalent to eight standard 750 ml bottles

An imperial of Fonseca 40 Year Old Tawny can disappear remarkably quickly.  Plus, served with the starter, Guimaraens pointed out it’s best enjoyed still chilled so that the emphasis is on the nuttiness.

The menu

The eagle-eyed among you will have spotted a Spanish interloper on the menu.  Paired with our main course, we enjoyed a super supple Roda I Reserva Rioja 2008 (it is distributed by Fonseca’s importer, Mentzendorff).  Sitting next to Guimaraens over dinner, I couldn’t resist teasing him that it was a lost opportunity to show a Fonseca/Fladgate Douro red.

Bowing to the inevitable (for the first time in our not infrequent conversations on said topic) Guimaraens conceded that The Fladgate Partnership will make a Douro wine at some point.  But he was quick to assert that it won’t be made by him, would be under a different brand and made in separate facilities.  Perhaps I shouldn’t hold my breath then, but I await developments with interest!

Spot the Bin 27 sorbet – “great colour!” exclaimed Guimaraens

And developments can come in surprising forms when you have a mixologist and chef on the team.  Here, Fonseca Bin 27 sorbet was my kind of sorbet.  Why have cotton (iced fruit juice) when you can have silk (iced Port) I say! It was drier than most sorbets too so had the body to go with the chocolate delice without being too sweet.  Bravo.

Port man through and through, David Guimaraens

Guimaraens, whose family have had a hand in every Fonseca Vintage Port, told us that Fonseca 1963 is his reference Vintage Port – “if I ever make a Vintage Port as good as that I am very happy.”  Both Vintage Ports served with the cheese course passed his mark of great Vintage Port with ease – “when they’re 15 years old, do they have the capacity to keep going?”

Vintage Port reflections – Fonseca ’85 to the left, ’63 to the right

Bottled and aged in Oporto, the Fonseca ’63 was super-spicy, with plenty of liquorice to its dried and slightly jammy strawberry and fig fruit.  Much to Guimaraens’ chagrin, the imperial of Fonseca ’85 was corked.  Now that was a very expensive cork indeed.  I was glad to have tasted a couple of great bottles earlier this year (and, I hope, bought a couple of good ‘uns from Waitrose in one of their recent 25% off deals)!  My recent review of the Fonseca Vintage Port 1985 here.

Alistair Robertson rounds off the evening

You can find out more about Fonseca in my Busy Wine Lovers’ Guide to Fonseca published by Wine-searcher here.