First taste: HM Borges 20 Year Old Verdelho Madeira

on 21/05/2012 at 9:42 am

Tonight, I’m attending a function to mark the launch of the Madeira Flower and Wine Show hosted by Pestana Hotels at their London hotel, Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel.

Madeira’s most innovative producer, Ricardo Diogo V. Freitas of Barbeito, will be showing his wines alongside an exhibition of Madeira’s finest flora presented by His Excellency The Mayor of Funchal, Miguel Albuquerque.

Freitas was the first Madeira producer to bottle a 20 Year Old, then 30 Year Old Madeira (both Malvasias) – terrific wines. Since then Henriques & Henriques have launched a 20 Year Old Malvasia and a 20 Year Old Terrantez, also terrific (reviewed here). Earlier this month, I had my first taste of a 20 Year Old Verdelho. Here are my notes:

HM Borges Verdelho 20 Year Old Madeira

Great varietal character and purity to this intense Madeira. It shows juicy tropical fruit, especially guava, with a smokiness I often pick up in Verdelho Madeira. Going through, it’s very fine and precise, with bright and persistent grapefruity acidity. A long, fruity, tangy Madeira. Very attractive.

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Niklas Jorgensen on 2 June, 2012 at 09:03

Hi Sarah,

I fully share your opinion on the Verdelho! Isabel Borges poured me this one when I visited them last year and I was impressed by the elegance and freshness.

Ricardo Diogo has bottled a 20 YO Verdelho as well. Not under his own label though but as a co-op. Never tasted it though. Would love to ;-)

Have you tried Ricardo´s most recent bottling on the 20 YO Malvazia?

All the best,

Niklas