December Wines of the Month: Filipa Pato Espírito de Baga Uma Saga & Domaine Thibaud Boudignon Cuvée a François(e) Anjou 2012

For drinking now, Filipa Pato’s exquisite fortified Baga is just hitting its sleek, sophisticated stride. With Atlantic and varietal freshness, it most certainly refreshes the parts Port cannot reach. For those with patience (it has yet to land in this country), Thibaud Boudignon Cuvée a François(e) Chenin Blanc is perhaps the perfect Christmas present to oneself.

Filipa Pato Espírito de Baga Uma Saga (Beiras)

I first tasted this one-of-a-kind fortified Baga a year ago and was immediately impressed by its spirit integration and refinement. Pato has revived a Bairrada tradition which was lost in the late 18th century as a result of measures designed to protect the Port industry. Which seems a bit silly when this fortified red bears little resemblance to Port. As you’d expect given the Atlantic influence, it’s fresher and more finely wrought. Really silky, poised and persistent with succulent but well-defined black fruit, peppery lift and a long, mineral-sluiced finish. The secret to its elegant spirit integration? The spirit comes from Baga grapes from Bairrada. Look no further if you find Port too heavy or just fancy a change. It’s brilliant with chocolate, made a great thanksgiving-with-a-twist pumpkin pie option (see here). I’d plump for gorgonzola over stilton for the (blue) cheese board. No wonder the authorities have had a change of heart. Fortified Baga is set to receive the official seal of approval. £22.50 (50cl) at Bottle Apostle

Domaine Thibaud Boudignon Cuvée a François(e) Anjou 2012 (Anjou)

From 100% schist-strewn soils, this lean and mean yet powerful dry Chenin’s focus and breathtaking minerality is beautifully expressive of its terroir (the oak here – 25% new, 500l barrels – is very subtle). The acid profile is crisp and tight – a bright beam of steely, mineral, grapefruity acidity, which carries an exceptionally long, exhilarating quinine finish. Terrific. A most fitting tribute to Boudignon’s mother and grandfather, Francois(e), who helped him get started (click here for details). 13.5% £105/6 bottles en primeur at Justerini & Brooks.