Blend: a new approach to Portuguese wine

Blends are par for the course in Portugal.  Varietal blends that is.

Apart from fortifieds and fizz, it’s rare to find non-vintage premium wines.  Yet this last week I’ve tasted two.  Both excellent, with much to offer over and above the novelty factor.  Here are my notes:

Quinta do Regueiro Blend

Regueiro’s excellent Alvarinhos from the Melgaco sub-region of Vinho Verde came to my attention when the producer struck gold at The Alvarinho International Wine Challenge in 2011.  This innovative Alvarinho blend, which comprises a third each of the 2010, 2011 and 2012 vintages, is super-complex and involving, with layers of citrus and stone fruit, honeysuckle and more savoury honeycombe nuances, which unfold and build in the mouth.  A long, powerful finish is underscored by fresh, mineral acidity.  Developed in conjunction with D&F, it emphatically marks a sea–change in the long time (Portuguese) specialist importer’s focus. The new portfolio looks (and tastes) distinctly upmarket. UK RRP £17.50

Alves de Sousa Memórias

This time last year I had a sneak preview of this Douro red (here), which marks Alves de Sousa’s 20th anniversary of wine production.  Now bottled (in 1500 handsome magnums), it’s just about to hit the market at around €150 a pop. The collectors among you may wish to note that this will be Memórias mark 1 – the plan is to make this cuvee every 10 years.  Next time it will be the story of 30 harvests. But sticking very much with the present (the last 20 years at least!), how does Memórias mark1 taste?  No doubt because its component parts, which come from three vineyards, span six vintages* – the best in the last decade – it’s a very complete wine, drinking beautifully now.  Mouthfilling yet lithe and elegant with good focus to its plush but bright layers of eucalypt-edged black and red forest fruits.  Inkier, spicy, toasty depths too, which became particularly, deliciously apparent over lunch when the wine was served in a wider bowled burgundy-style glass.  The finish is firm, very persistent. Excellent.

*The component parts came from the 2003, 2004, 2005, 2007, 2008 & 2009 vintages.  The project was conceived in 2005 after the 2003 vintage had already been bottled.  Bottles were emptied for the base blend which, from 2004, was largely made solera-style by the addition of new wines each year.