All Bar Two? Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2013 v 2007

Robert Hill-Smith’s blood was up when he spoke recently at Negociant UK’s 25th anniversary party about Australian wine and the UK trade.  Pointing out, “Australia is making the best wines in its history,” Negociant’s founder & Chair of Yalumba expressed profound disappointment about the UK being “so price-obsessed” and “having so little courage to put good wine in front of people.”  

It’s a fair point, especially as far as the big players are concerned, so I was very pleasantly surprised to hear that All Bar One are listing two vintages of Mount Pleasant Hunter Semillon alongside one another.   Much as I love Hunter Semillon, it hasn’t proved anywhere near as popular as wine bar staples like Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio.  So I was heartened to hear that Henry Boyes (Wine Procurement Manager at Mitchells & Butler, who own All Bar One) believes that listing the current 2013 release of Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon alongside the older 2007 vintage “is a great way to show how top quality wines can age and develop, but it also underlines our desire to encourage our guests to discover something new and try something a little different.”  Bravo.

I re-tasted the pair this month, having tasted them earlier in the year alongside Mount Pleasant’s top (Maurice O’Shea) Shiraz and (Lovedale) Semillon (reported here).  You’ll find my latest notes below and, by the way, watch this space for more reports on the Hunter from the Hunter.  Next month, I’m judging at the Hunter Valley Show.

Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2013 (Hunter Valley)

A excellent vintage in which Semillon has been hailed as arguably the best since 2005.  This pale, young Semillon (pictured left), still with green glints, reveals promising lemongrass, lemon and lime citrus intensity to nose and lip-smacking palate – lots still in the tank!  Yet it’s deliciously broachable – flavoursome with, already some richness on a textural, slightly waxy palate.  A long, well-focused finish is has impressive lemony/grapefruity drive and minerality. Excellent.  11%

Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Cellar Aged Semillon 2007 (Hunter Valley)

A very dry growing season with warm days led to an early start to harvest; a low to moderate crop was picked with zero disease pressure.  A glorious nose and palate positively drips with lemon butter on toast – lovely richness to nose and attack with a prickle of horseradish for piquancy and tufa/white porcini complexity.  The toast reverberates spicily on the back palate, giving this wine a second wind.  Bring on the hot smoked salmon and horseradish on grilled sour dough now! Very on song and, with the acidity present but mellow, I wouldn’t keep this for more than another year or so.   (And, once tasted, I suspect how long it will keep becomes a little academic!)  11% abv