Berry Bros & Rudd: Domaine Huet Vouvray treasures, including the ’45 Haut Lieu Demi-Sec & Haut Lieu 1ere Trie Moelleux 1989

I made a bee-line for Berry Bros & Rudd’s Autumn press tasting yesterday to catch up with a selection of Pereira d’Oliveira Madeiras dating back to 1875, plus their South African range, a focus of the line up.

Little did I know that Britain’s oldest fine wine and spirit merchant had an ace up its sleeve, for me at least. They only hadn’t mentioned back vintages of Domaine Huet Vouvray in their “whet your appetite” invitation.

There and again Chenin seems not to be everyone’s cup of tea, but IMHO, the ’45 was an absolute marvel, the ’89 a tight-rope triumph of balance.

Here are my notes; Madeira and Cape highlights (including some excellent Chenin/Chenin blends) to follow.

All wines will be mixed cases of six, one from each decade, around the prices shown below. Berry Bros & Rudd will also be offering very limited stock from the 1930s and earlier. Check out Richard Kelley MW’s website here for extensive Huet vintage reports.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Haut Lieu Demi-sec 1945 (Loire)

Deep gold, with the most divinely juicy, very much alive core of sweet mandarin fruit. Superb balance. A mellifluous, honeyed finished is long and pure. Really fluid – not a hint of drying out here. Wow, wow; an elixir of youth! 11.5% abv £450-550

Domaine Huet Vouvray Perlant Demi-sec 1959 (Loire)

Perlant is a reference to this deep gold wine’s (Petillant-like) sparkle. Very delicate now, though perceptible. The autolytic notes – toast – are very pronounced on the nose and attack, which fugs the seemingly more developed (compared with the ’45) fruit. Initially at least. But it still has citrussy, marmaladey fruit, which asserts itself towards and through the finish. 11.5% abv £150-200

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos de Bourg Moelleux 1961 (Loire)

Pale gold. Really quite youthful in hue, with a tremendously beguiling perfume of dried honey and calisson with dried peach and apricot nuances. In the mouth, though it’s drier (less sweet) than I anticipated, its purity of expression and fruit/acid balance impresses. Holding beautifully. 11.5%, £150-250

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos de Bourg Moelleux 1970 (Loire)

I found this wine/bottle lacked the purity and precision of the others, showing tufa/earthy porcini notes. With time in glass it opens up to reveal some sweet fruit, though the finish retained a dusty, earthy finish. Drying out. 11.5%, £150-250

Domaine Huet Vouvray Haut Lieu 1ere Trie Moelleux 1989 (Loire)

Yellow gold with a gorgeous intensity of perfumed, saffron-edged fruit to its nose and dancing palate. Positively sprightly, its quince, apple core, grapefruit and stone fruits still so vivid and pure. Yet it’s so precise of delivery with a fabulous to infinity and beyond beam of mineral acidity – the perfect foil for its sweetness. Walks the tightrope of sugar and acidity perfectly. A favourite vintage exquisitely executed. 13% £125-175 – something of a bargain for such a classy wine, moreover one so capable of delivering great pleasure for decades yet.