October Wines of the Month: Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 & Campbells Merchant Prince Rare Rutherglen Muscat

Three leggy Rutherglen fortified finalists at The Australian Fortified Wine Show – the Campbells to the right

Inevitably Australia was the inspiration for my October Wines of the Month. I must confess it was a ginormous challenge to pick out just two. Here they are:

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (Coonawarra)

Wynns’ Allen Jenkins shows off classic Conawarra turf – terra rossa over limestone

Wynns are blessed with the most extensive vineyard holdings in Coonawarra. An advantage which Chief Winemaker Sue Hodder and Chief Viticulturist Allen Jenkins have deployed to great effect, whether in this flagship blend of different vineyards or, latterly, a raft of single vineyard wines the product of a painstaking vineyard renovation. I shall write up the single vineyard releases shortly but, to quote Aristotle (as I am wont to do!), at least in this vintage, the John Riddoch is proof positive that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. It’s a beautiful colour, deep but bright crimson. The nose intensely perfumed, with cedar, dried roses and violets which follow through on the firm, tight, mineral-sluiced cassis and juicy plum palate – just lovely saturation of fruit and minerals here. With marked floral lift, the finish is very long and persistent with terrific poise thanks to its seamless swathe of supporting, fine-grained tannins. Outstandingly refined. Power with grace. 13.5% abv. The 2010 has yet to hit the UK; the 2008 is £53.40 at Nickolls & Perks

Campbells Merchant Prince Rare Rutherglen Muscat (Rutherglen)

The Australian Fortified Wine Show – the victorious Campbells clan

Like the Wynns, the Merchant Prince is Campbells’ flagship Muscat. Rare is the ultimate style of Rutherglen Muscat and, given Rutherglen Muscat’s reputation for richness, this non-vintage blend is made from the ripest, most luscious fruit, which has been wood-aged in a “modified solera.” The oldest component of the blend is well over 60 years old. As much is apparent from its deep brown hue, olive rim and saffron-coated swirl, not to mention its intense concentration of dates and raisin fruit – as opulent and unctuous a mouthfeel as I’ve experienced, yet not without balance. Complexing rancio notes of black bonfire toffee and nutty, vanilla bourbon spice bring depth and nuance – a woody timbre – to a monumentally munificent finish which lingers for minutes. A very worthy winner of wine of the show at last month’s The Australian Fortified Wine Show. 18% abv. £205/case of six 375ml bottles, excluding VAT & duty at BEL Wines – something of a bargain for such an extraordinary and unique wine.