Klein Constantia Vin de Constance vertical: the most extensive tasting ever

I’ve attended two extensive vertical tastings of dessert wines recently.  The first – 30 vintages of Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon – is reported here.  Below you’ll find my notes on the second – this Monday’s tasting of 21 vintages of Klein Constantia Vin de Constance, probably South Africa’s most famous sweet wine.

Naturally sweet, Vin de Constance is a late harvest Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains from Constantia, South Africa.  It was first made in 1986 by the late Ross Gower with the aim of reviving a long lost tradition immortalised in literature by, among others, Jane Austen, Charles Dickens and Charles Baudelaire.  According to Hugh Johnson, the sweet wines of Constantia were “bought by European courts in the early 19^th century in preference to Yquem, Tokay, Madeira…”

So why the gap?  Phylloxera explains why production of Constantia’s celebrated sweet wines had already ceased by the end of the 19^th century.  In a bid to restore production levels soonest, the country embarked on a frenzy of replanting.  Inevitably pragmatism reigned; new plantings centred around high yielding grapes, notably Cinsault.

By the early 20^th century the Cape was already in huge surplus and, in the ensuing climate of regulation (designed to crack down on the surpluses), legislation didn’t even recognise natural sweet wines with more than 20g/l of residual sugar.  The situation didn’t change until well into the second half of the 20^th century, when the international success of Günter Brözel’s Nederburg Edelkeur 1969 triggered a change in the law.

By 1980, when Duggie Jooste acquired Klein Constantia for redevelopment, the conditions were ripe for a revival of sweet winemaking in Constantia. Gower, Brözel’s former assistant winemaker, was the man to do it.

Early farm records had been studied and a careful selection was made from vines which it’s thought in all likelihood came from the original stock used in Constantia 300 years ago. (Klein Constantia was once part of the original Constantia estate, belonging first to Simon van der Stel, and then to Hendrik Cloete, the latter of whose family presided over the original success of the sweet wines of Constantia.  So was Groot Constantia which, since 2003 has also made a sweet wine, called Grand Constance).

After harvesting, typically in late March (in 2012, in April – the latest vintage) – sweet, raisined grapes are left to macerate on their skins for several days to aid extraction of aroma and flavour compounds, also to soften the grapes, which facilitates pressing (juice recovery).  The pressed juice is fermented in 500l barrels and aged around four years on gross lees before bottling.

Gower left Klein Constantia in 2003 and no wine was made (or at least released) that year.  Since then tweaks have been made by his successors, Adam Mason (2003-2011), now Matthew Hall who worked alongside Mason for four years.  From 2010, these have included harvesting in different batches (one an intensely syrupy blending component, Tokaji Essencia style, another an early batch for acidity), a longer (2 week) cold maceration and fermenting on skins.  These days Vin de Constance is aged in newer oak (still 500l barrels, but around 60% new) and acacia wood is used which, says Day, is “very nice for freshness.” 

Bigger picture, according to Hans Astrom who was appointed MD by Zdenek Bakala and Charles Harman (who bought the property last year), the new owners are investing heavily in restoring the vineyards and have plans for the winery too.

Below are my notes on the wines.  As you’ll see, the analytical profile of the wines was quite divergent, especially residual sugar levels, which ranged from:

Alcohol: 12.28% (2005) to 15.9% (1989)

Residual Sugar: 82g/l (1988) to 177g/l (2007)

Total Acidity: 6.7g/l (2002) to 10.9g/l (1988)

The most recent vintages have consistently been at the higher end of the sugar ripeness spectrum.

As for earlier vintages, there was a good deal less consistency in the wines from the 80s and 90s, with a disappointingly high strike rate of out of condition wines – query storage conditions (and perhaps it didn’t help with overall purity of expression that tasting samples were a blend of bottles).

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2007

Deep gold with a rich, copious nose showing sweet barley sugar, mandarin, orange peel, musky Turkish Delight floral lift, exotic lychee, singed caramel and a nutty undertow, all of which follow through on a rich, vibrant palate together with creamy, ripe, sweet, syrupy, peachy.  Ripe integrated citrusy acidity to balance makes for a very long, vibrant, intense finish.  Outstanding concentration with balance in this cooler vintage.  One of my picks of the bunch.  14%, RS 177g/l, TA 8.3g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2006

Though it has no little concentration, this doesn’t have the energy, depth of flavour or complexity of the 2007 or 2005, which perhaps lead me into making an unfair comparison.  It shows sweet, syrupy mandarin orange, with more pronounced barley sugar notes.  A hedonistic, sunny wine; a little simple in expression now, but give it time. 13.14%, RS 170g/l, TA 7.15g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2005

A complex nose shows subtle savoury notes – cheese rind/nuts together with clove and coconut, around a butterscotch-edged toothsome core of pineapple fruit. A tight vein of ripe citrus acidity lends race and pace to an orange and lime peel edged finish.  Very good.  12.28%, RS 157g/l, TA 7.5g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2004

A relatively deep colour with a complex nose and palate layered with notes of marmalade, dried mango, nuts and Turkish delight.  Hints of camomile tea, barley sugar and a lip-smacking vein of lively acidity make for a long fine finish.  A hint of dustiness relegates this from excellent to very good.  14.2%, RS 130g/l, TA 8.7g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2002

A deeper hue, golden with amber glints, this is an opulent wine, still very primary, with rich, creamy/syrupy peaches and cream and thick cut marmalade; a heady floral lift too.  Tatin-like singed caramel, butterscotch and nuts follow through on an indecently long finish with excellent acid/sugar balance.  Outstanding.   12.97%, RS 153g/l, TA 6.7g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2001

A woody, rancio undertone mars the purity of this vintage which, though streaked with fresh acidity, seems quite evolved, with a nuttier nose and savoury salted lemon and limes as well as sweeter marmalade on the palate.  The honeyed finish reveals buttermint/eucalypt menthol notes.  14.8%, RS 135g/l, TA 8.8g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2000

This is a much deeper hue than the previous wines (see picture) as, bar a few, are the following vintages – firmly into the amber then mahogany zone.  The nose shows an oxidative, cidery note, with sweet bruised rosy apples.  In the mouth it’s quite viscous – nutty and surprisingly developed in comparison – with wild honey and fynbos notes and an elbowy streak of acidity.  14.1%, RS 141g/l, TA 7.1g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1999

Reddish amber in hue.  A lavish nose and palate shows concentrated, caramelised peaches and apricots with plenty of viscosity and mouthfeel.  Pithy, racy acidity carries a long, showy finish with orange peel, nuts and heady floral notes.  Very good.  14.65%, RS 186g/l, TA 8.5g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1998

Reddish amber with a saffron rim.  The palate is fuggy/unclean, with mouldy orange peel and mushroom notes.  Shame.  14.3%, RS 160g/l, TA 9.5g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1997

A bright reddish amber hue.  Volatile acidity lends a high toned quality to the salty, nutty nose.  There’s a hint of kelp/iodine too.  In the mouth it’s compressed with shrill acidity on the attack and developed, savoury notes of salted limes, mouldy orange peel and earthy porcini.  Disjointed.  14%, RS 102g/l, TA 9.1g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1996

Deep amber in hue.  Though still showing flashes of sweet citrus thanks to quite tight, salty acidity, the palate is a bit simple and blocky, with a dusty, nutty finish.  14.3%, RS 112g/l, TA 8.7g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1995

Deep red amber with an involving, nutty/rancio fynbos honeyed nose, which notes follow through on a rich, spicy mid-palate with raisins, apricots, orange peel and nutty, peanut brittle.  Though a touch flat-footed and warm (abv) on the finish, it’s a complex wine with good depth of flavour.  14.5%, RS 112g/l, TA 8.3g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1994

Developed amber/mahogany in hue with rancio, pot pourri, dried honey and mint toffo notes to its dried stone and citrus fruits.  A clumsy finish and angular, salted lime acidity suggests this is starting to dry out.  14%, RS 139g/l, TA 8.8g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1993

Though deep mahogany in colour, a sustaining palate shows dried coconut-edged apricot, peach and mango fruit with a thrust of bright acidity.  Woody, spicy notes come to the fore on a high toned reasonably long finish. Good. 14.5%, RS 168g/l, TA 7g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1992

Deep mahogany; quite dull too, with an acetic bruised apple nose and palate.  Out of condition.  14.5%, RS 103g/l, TA 8.3g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1991

Standing out for its bright light amber hue, this vintage blew me away with its animated but toothsome palate.  Tingly sweet citrus acidity teases out layer after layer of caramel, dried peach, barley sugar, marmalade and spicy, rancio nutty, woody notes over a super long, well-defined and lipsmacking finish.  Lovely line and length.  Outstanding and thoroughly puzzling too – I simply have no idea why this vintage is so youthful compared with others.  14.1%, RS 158g/l, TA 8.3g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1990

Deep reddish amber in hue with a yellow rim.  An expressive nose and palate shows mouldy orange and pot pourri with buttermint/mint toffo nuances, underscored by fresh acidity.  Quite long, sweet and viscous; just lacking a bit of purity.  14.4%, RS 127g/l, TA 7.5g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1989

Cloudy, oxidised; out of condition.  15.9%, RS 84g/l, TA 8.5g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1988

Dark brown with HP sauce spicy/acetic notes to nose and palate.  Out of condition.  14.4%, RS 82g/l, TA 10.9g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1987

A high toned, calvadossy nose leads onto a super spicy, lively palate with buttermint, baked apples, cinnamon, cloves and earl grey tea notes; lively and quite long.  Shades of gluhwein to this, but I like it!  13.9%, RS 125g/l, TA 9.4g/l

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1986

This first vintage was never released for sale.  With its dried floral (pot pourri/earl grey) notes, traces of Muscat peak through, but the palate suffers from oxidation.  13.7%, RS 95g/l, TA figure n/a.

Sarah Ahmed
The Wine Detective
(Wines tasted September 2012)