Wynn-ing ways: catching up with wines old and new from Wynns Coonawarra Estate

Last week, in an inteview with The Australian, Treasury Wine Estates CEO David Dearie quashed rumours that TWE is to hive off the jewel in the crown of its portfolio, Penfolds (even though Penfolds’ wines didn’t make an appearance at its recent London tasting said she, stoking the rumour mill!)

I hope it’s true because, as my report (here) highlighted, TWE has no shortage of gems in its portfolio and I’m a firm believer of strength in diversity.  Why not use the undeniable pulling power of Penfolds to remind folk that Australia has many more wonderful heritage brands.

One such is Limestone Coast leviathan, Wynns Coonawarra Estate.  It boasts the biggest percentage of vines (especially old vines) which are located on the region’s famous terra rossa soils (70% no less). Soils whose limestone and wind-derived clay makes for a Cabernet-perfect free-draining environment.

In town to present a selection of Wynns’ wines, Chief Winemaker Sue Hodder (pictured) said that, although the brand is somewhat under the radar in the UK (it’s mostly sold in Australia), it represents an important chapter in Australian history.   Though its early table wines were Shiraz/Shiraz Cabernet blends, it was swift to nail its varietal colours to the mast and, together with Margaret River, Coonawarra is Australia’s leading Cabernet Sauvignon-focused region.   Not just because of its terra rossa soil, but also because of its cool climate which, says Hodder, is “profoundly influenced by the chilly Southern Ocean, whose winds blow in from two directions and modify night time temperatures in particular.”

Being so quick off the starting blocks with Cabernet, like Penfolds, Wynns can wheel out an impressive array of museum release wines to demonstrate the ageability of its wines, including the modestly priced but prized Black Label which, says Hodder, James Halliday calls “Australia’s most important Cabernet.”

What’s more since 2002, following a major renovation of its vineyards, Wynns has started to isolate fruit sourced from the best performing blocks each vintage to produce single site wines. Hodder explains “Coonawarra is a relatively small and compact region (5700 ha), however we certainly see style, flavour and character differences between the different vineyards.” She adds “Given that Australia has some of the oldest soils in the world and Wynns has relatively large older Cabernet vineyards, it is important that we acknowledge the best with single vineyard labels.”

Each year, the winemaking team select a single parcel which they believe best illustrates the year. For example, in 2005, a warmer than average year, the Messenger vineyard was selected because it’s from the cooler southern end of the Terra Rossa strip. Five years later, in 2010 (another warmer vintage), Wynns have, once again, selected the Messenger Vineyard for their single vineyard wine.

Switching to Shiraz, though it has long since been overtaken by Coonawarra Cabernet as far as profile goes, Hodder says the relative warmth of the last decade has augured well for it and plantings are on the up.  She adds the best Shiraz vineyards tend to be on the eastern side of strip, whose better drained sandier soils help manage the variety’s natural vigour.

Here are my notes on those wines which Hodder presented:

Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 1958

A bricky garnet hue with a plum core.  On the nose and powerfully intense, dark palate it shows hints of dried roses, oyster shell/iodine/kelp, linseed oil, worn leather and deep spice to its black reduction of fruits.  Made by Norm Walker, this is truly the homeopathic essence of Coonawarra.  Hodder says research is investigating whether there’s a link between the iodine/oyster shell character, amino acids and ancient sea bed soils. I look forward to hearing more.

Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 1994

Made during Hodder’s second year at Wynns from an unheralded vintage, this is an aromatic Cabernet with dried roses and juicy blackberry and plum fruit.  Going through, I find the acidity quite hard/angular – forced.  Hodder says it’s the highest acid wine of those she is showing, with close to 8g/l Total Acidity.  These days, there’s been a shift to less acidification – a good thing.

Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

According to Hodder, though the trend in the 1990s was to pick at phenolic ripeness, the definition of phenolic ripeness has changed.  Back then, it meant bigger tannins and higher pHs.  These days she says, “we now know from looking at 1960s’ wines that medium bodied wines can still age gracefully.”  In short, there’s a shift towards more elegant styles with less added tannins (as well as acid), which are more supple on release  I have to say though, I enjoyed the big boned tannins of this wine – a savoury foil to its rich blackcurrant and black olive palate, with its layers of earth, mint, iodine and leather.  Youthful and in need of a big hunk of protein!

Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

A fine vintage with an attractive leafy edge and kiss of cedar oak to its rich core of cassis fruit.  With earthier undertones, it’s very classic.  Fine but firm tannins and good freshness make for lovely length and line.  Very good.

Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Aromatic with dried rose and (as it opens up) cool mint notes to its powerful, well proportioned palate with fine powdery tannins.  A concentrated core of sweet red and black fruits needs time to open up, but I’m sure it will be worth the wait.  Very good.  For Hodder, renovation of the vineyards has resulted in brighter wines with red as well as black fruits which ripen earlier.

Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

This I tasted earlier in the year, alongside other recent releases (click here for my report). Tasted over three days, it just keeps building, initially showing some malty oak but soon cutting to the chase with concentrated, well-defined but glossy black berry and currant fruit, cassis and chocolate and balsamic, violets and liquorice as it opens up.  A long, persistent finish teased out by a grainy but well polished chassis of tannins tells you this can go the distance (and, on ageworthiness, click here for a report of a vertical back to 1958).

Wynns Michaels Shiraz 1994

This is a deep plumy hue and, once again in this vintage, I find the acid quite hard going through….  Green peppercorn notes suggest the fruit may have lacked phenolic ripeness.

Wynns Michaels Shiraz 1998

A warmer vintage and a richer wine with chocolatey plum fruit and chunky ripe tannins.  Though earthy and savoury, with dried herbs and peppery notes, it remains fresh, its finish long and clean.  Well done.

Wynns Michaels Shiraz 2008

During the vineyard rejuvenation, no Michaels Shiraz was produced in between 1999 and 2002 (nor was there any 2007). This doesn’t have the spiciness of cool climate Shiraz from Victoria or Canberra District.  Rather the focus seems to be on the silkiness/creaminess and purity of its red and black fruits, which makes it a little less interesting/edgy for me, but it’s a very well made medium-bodied style with admirable purity of fruit and attractive mocha oak.

Wynns Glengyle Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

By common consensus, this perfumed medium-bodied Cabernet from, typically, the earliest ripening vineyard, was the stand out, though given a good run for its money by the John Riddoch 2008 (see below).  A taste bud tickling nose is spicy and subtly leafy with tobacco hints which dance along a juicy palate, with bright, almost crunchily fresh, red cherry, berry and cassis. Lifted mint as well as dried herbs build to a crescendo on the finish, ably assisted by a rising plume of very fine tannins. Great length and finesse. RRP £56-58

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 1988

A plummy opaque hue with a lifted leafy note to the nose which signposts this wine’s lively, fresh acidity.  Surprisingly, the fruit is just a little muddy.  Perhaps in transition?  Really like its oyster shell and leather hints.

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 1994

A much deeper (aubergine) hue than the 88.  Once again, this vintage’s strident acidity mars the wine – just too angular for me and I don’t see it integrating down the track.

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

As yet quite closed, with firm acidity, though the tannins are fine and powdery.  A seam of cocoa dusted cassis, black currant and berry fruit has yet to be mined.  Needs time.

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

A deep, rich nose with a leafy edge and richer chocolate notes to its juicy cassis and savoury black olive fruit.  Firm ripe tannins lend plenty of support while an undertow of mineral acidity lends precision – lovely definition and focus to the finish.  Broachable now but so much more to give.  Very good indeed; great poise/balance. Click here for my tasting note of earlier this year, which is based on tasting a bottle over three days. As I said, resist this one for now if you can!