Wolf Blass Black Label vertical (1979-2010)

It may be Wednesday today but it was Wynnsday on Monday.  No, not a function of the time difference between here in Australia and the UK (the gap’s not not that yawning!) but the first part of my programme of visits with key South Australian Treasury Wine Estate brands during this, my second week in Australia.  Having flown back up from Coonawarra to Adelaide last night today I’ll be catching up with Chris Hatcher of Wolf Blass who presented a vertical tasting of Wolf Blass Black Label in London just before I headed to Australia.

Hatcher told us he has been at Wolf Blass for rather longer than the five year stint he’d originally planned. But if, during this time, he’s become sufficiently familiar with the boss to call him “Wolfie” the shifting sands of the wine business and famous South Australian brand’s evolution have taken him into new territory and, he says, kept him interested.

Even iconic Cabernet Shiraz blend Wolf Blass Black Label has evolved since Woolfie first created it in 1973 from the best barrels of Grey Label. The constants, says Hatcher, have been the multi-regional blend philosophy which he defines as being focused on the style and not “the individual componentry” – about “making the absolute best you can” without being hidebound by region or indeed variety.

And not being tied to a single variety, region or vineyard partly explains why Wolf Bass Black Label has been made every year. It helps that, in cooler years, Hatcher can include more Shiraz or more Cabernet in warmer years. It’s a hit rate which he does not expect to replicate with the company’s single vineyard Platinum Label Shiraz or new Estates of the Barossa sub-regional Shiraz (but that’s another story for later).

As for the evolution of Black Label the raw ingredients have seen tweaks. Since 2002 (also the first year of screwcap) Malbec from Langhorne  Creek (which Hatcher clearly rates very highly) has been included in the mix (and the 84 had a splash of Merlot). In terms of regional origin Clare Valley has fallen away as a fruit source and the modern era Black Label comes from Langhorne Creek, the Barossa and McLaren Vale.

In the winery in line with the general trend of the last decade or so French oak has more or less replaced the sweeter American oak of old and less oak is used. For Hatcher, the shift is very much related to the higher quality of fruit achieved now that professional viticulturists oversee the vineyards. Initially, he says, “oak filled up the failings of fruit and, in the early 90s, we stuck to that too much.” These days Hatcher believes that, with better quality fruit, balanced wines need less oak.  Plus he “hates dead fruit” so fruit vibrancy (which can be diminished by oak as well as over-ripening) is high on his check list.

Going in the other direction small squat open fermenters are, once again, de rigeur. For Hatcher they are perfect for the Wolf Blass style where you can pick up a fermenter and tip it into the press – “so like an old basket press you get a very very soft pressing with no aggressive tannins.” Latterly softer pressings have been added back to build texture (while retaining softness).

More generally on the subject of Wolf Blass’ trademark soft tannins Hatcher speculates that Woolfie may also have picked up on Penfolds’ Chief Winemaker Max Schubert’s partial barrel ferments as a means of better integrating oak tannin (incidentally, the more structured Platinum label is fermented to dryness before being racked to barrel. Apparently, there’s an old photo of Woolfie in “L” plates drinking alongside Schubert at the Angus Park pub!

Here are my notes on the wines:

Wolf Blass Black Label 1979 (South Australia)

Fruit (varietal split not given) was sourced from Langhorne Creek,Barossa Valley & Clare Valley. A late vintage in 2 parts saw heat spikes in December and January followed by mild, wet conditions (above average rainfall except for March). This wine was fermented on skins until 5 degrees baume then pressed into new American oak where it completed the fermentation and aged for 20 months. A mature bricky hue though still with good colour depth. A mature autumnal palate with dried fruits/panforte and notes of decay – earthy porcini, leaf mulch and a fuggy, smokiness. Still some fruit richness and structure here – a presence but not for long – the finish is drying out and, going back, the earthier notes dominated the wine. Drink up. 12.5%

Wolf Blass Black Label 1984 (South Australia)

The fruit (75% Cabernet, 15% Merlot & 10% Shiraz) was sourced from Langhorne Creek, Barossa Valley, Eden Valley & Clare Valley. Good winter/spring rains were followed by a warm, dry vintage. Despite a similar hue to the 79 this has much more palate sweetness and presence, eucalypt lift too both to nose and palate. Dried and jammy red berry and plum fruit with chocolate/mocha and exotic coconut oak nuances flesh out a still quite plush, smooth-tannined palate; good balance and length. There’s just a hint of earthy porcini but, at 30 years old, it’s still remarkably fruit centered. Very Black Label in its softness and sweet warmth. 12.5%

Wolf Blass Black Label 1990 (South Australia)

Regarded as a classic vintage in South Australia (a wet winter and very long, dry but not hot summer) and yet this is not the first top tier 1990 to disappoint. It comprises 85% Cabernet and 15% Shiraz from Langhorne Creek and McLaren Vale. Aged in American and French oak for 30 months following fermentation (partly in barrel). A garnet hue. Much less vigorous on the nose and palate than the 84 though it similarly reveals eucalyptus. But the predominant impression is of (premature) development – pot pourri, spice, liquorice, dry biscuit and earthy porcini. Not much to flesh it out. Apparently five bottles were opened to get 2 passable wines to pour; shame. 12.5%

Wolf Blass Black Label 1992 (South Australia)

Unusual fruit sourcing (McLaren Vale, Coonawarra & Clare Valley) and an unusual year – good winter rains, a cool dry spring and summer with patchy rain at vintage. Mostly fermented in new French oak and matured in new French and American oak for 30 months. Good depth and brightness of colour. A tarry, chocolatey nose forecasts a rich, chocolatey palate – think creamy black forest gateau fruit. An amplitude which is neatly set off by its balsamic and eucalypt vinosity and lift, characters which become more pronounced with time in glass. Not as big as you first think. 13%

Wolf Blass Black Label 1998 (South Australia)

A classic vintage which does deliver – especially the magnum. Growing conditions were considered “perfect” in South Australia. A blend of Cabernet (89%) Shiraz and Merlot from the Barossa Valley, Langhorne Creek and McLaren Vale. Part fermented in 100% new American oak then aged in 100% new French oak for 20 months. A tarry, chocolatey, spicy nose exudes sweet warmth; the palate is sveltly dark fruited and, with fleshy plum, the acidity is still juicy. Very well balanced; nice length, plush tannins. 13.9%

Wolf Blass Black Label 1998, magnum (South Australia)

Wow. What a difference in colour. Deeper as you’d expect from a magnum but quite a lot deeper. The fruit is more primary too, rich and powerful, fleshy, creamy, verging on corpulent but for that persistent, juicy, rolling acidity. It has a cool vein of eucalypt too. Ripe but present tannins underscore and extend a long finish. Lots of life in this yet. Excellent.  13.9%

Wolf Blass Black Label 2002 (South Australia)

A wet winter, the coolest summer on record in South Australia, ending with a cool dry autumn – “a winemaker’s dream.” Fruit  (40% Cabernet, 53% Shiraz and 7% Malbec) was sourced from Barossa Valley, Eden Valley and Langhorne Creek. The wine completed fermentation and was aged for 24 months in new French and American oak. In line with the vintage this is a very vibrant wine – in hue and to nose and palate. Youthfully primary and juicy with a voluminous mid-palate of still vivid, palate-staining violet-edged red and black berry and currant fruit and fleshier plum. Fine grained tannins carry a long very polished, fluid finish. Tons of potential. A (refined) baby. Hard to believe it’s 15%

Wolf Blass Black Label 2004 (South Australia)

A good winter rainfall followed by a very long, dry, warm growing season has yielded a burly wine. Quite a contrast to the 2002. It was sourced from Langhorne Creek, Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale and is comprised Cabernet, Shiraz and Malbec. The wine completed fermentation and was aged for 24 months in new French and American oak. A very deep, bright hue, still with a pink rim. And not much of a rim. Concentrated then with an epically proportioned mid-palate of blackcurrant and cassis well supported by velvety, ripe, powerful tannins. Such is its concentration that it is a little held back/solid going through. Still, lots to give once that compressed fruit unwinds.  Very good. 14.5%

Wolf Blass Black Label 2006 (South Australia)

Regarded as an outstanding vintage with good spring rains, a very warm January and warm, dry conditions thereafter. This blend of 51% Cabernet, 40% Shiraz and 9% Malbec  from Langhorne Creek, Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale completed fermentation and was aged for 20 months in new and seasoned French (95%) and American (5%) oak. A very deep hue with no rim to speak of.  Very creamy (with quite a pronounced lacto character?), loamy/earthy and chocolatey with succulent black cherry fruit. Seems a little out of kilter – not yet knit together. Couldn’t get to grips with this vintage…15%

Wolf Blass Black Label 2010 (South Australia)

A favourite vintage typified by great balance thanks to above average winter and spring rainfall (after the dry years) and a dry, moderate ripening season with no heat spikes. This blend of 51% Cabernet and 49% Shiraz comes from Langhorne Creek, Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. It completed fermentation and was aged for 22 months in 61% new. 20% one year old French and 19% new American (5%) oak. A bottomless pit of cinnamon-dusted densely layered black cherry, currant and berry is animated by bright, seamlessly integrated acidity – fruit acidity – and framed by ripe but present tannins. This youthful wine has a great sense of architecture such is its poise, balance and depth (fruit foundation). Wonderful structure. An outstanding, thoroughly modern Black Label for our times (and many, many years ahead). 15%