William Downie Pinot Noir – downie by name and nature…

So in a week I’ll be in in Victoria, serious Pinot country, especially given I’ll be staying in its historic heart, the Yarra Valley.  And Yabby Lake’s Tom Carson will be holding forth on Pinot Noir.  Carson, ex-Yering Station, is one of the region’s young guns and I have to say, I’ve been pretty excited by some of the new generation of Pinot Noirs I’ve been tasting over here (see here and here, for example), so I can’t wait to get over there!

Last week, I tasted William Downie’s Pinot Noirs for the third time.  Third time lucky and, though his wines made an impression before, I was glad to taste an older (2004) vintage which confirmed for me how very impressive they are.  Impressive is perhaps not the best word to use, because Downie’s wines may be intense, but they’re not in the least overbearing – as the headline says, downie by name and nature.  And if I’m going to run, fly (!) with the bird analogy, I’d describe these wines as swans – elegant and graceful but wow, there’s no shortage of power rippling below the surface thanks to their fine but present acid and tannin structure.  The 2004 vintage felt like it was just hitting its straps!  Without more, here are my tasting notes:

William Downie Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2004 – a fine garnet hue with a lovely nose, gamey with sous bois – very autumnal, as is the palate, though it also retains a pomegranate brightness, with flashes of red fruit animated by fresh acidity and supported by a fine spine of tannins.  Long and persistent, silky and sensual, a vital wine.  Excellent!

 William Downie Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2008 – pale ruby with lovely bright cherry fruit on nose and palate, complexed by a cool tang of clay/wet earth.  A savoury, leesy quality adds texture to the fruit while a fine spine of tannins enhances length, precision and persistence.  Lovely, broachable even. £36.95 at Liberty Wines

William Downie Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2008 – darker than the Mornington Peninsula wine with black cherry and five spice well met by quite marked, textured tannins, which cleave to the fruit – all poise and promise.  Lots of presence.  A keeper. £36.95 at Liberty Wines

William Downie Gippsland Pinot Noir 2008 – funkier/earthier with a distinct sour edge to its lively plum and red cherry fruit which, at this point in time is cocooned by ripe but present tannins.  A little off kilter/closed right now, but it has all the ingredients to shine with time.  A character. £36.95 at Liberty Wines

I’m aiming to tweet (@sarahwine) and blog as I go, but tweeps can also keep abreast of Landmark Tutorials and share their thoughts via #LAT10.