Treasury Wine Estates: small batch sizzle

For a country whose wines so often fall victim to the stereo-type Australia never ceases to surprise me.  From the get go, flying out, Qantas’ award winning wine list threw up any number of unfamiliar names, varieties and regions.  Southern Highlands Riesling anyone?  Orange Gewurtztraminer?  

You might think this is niche stuff which has no connection with the mainstream.  Certainly, my first week in Western Australia revealed a vibrant underbelly of hipster action from a host of relatively new small players.

Built in 1891 Wynn’s famous triple gabled winery features on its wine labels

But it was abundantly clear from this last week’s visits with key South Australian brands owned by Treasury Wine Estates (who flew me out to Australia) the sizzle is by no means the sole domaine of the small or new guys.

Wynn’s Chief Viticulturist Allen Jenkins & Sue Hodder’s No. 2 winemaker Sarah Pidgeon talk site & vine to wine

At Wynns, Wolf Blass and Saltram winemakers, viticulturists and growers are working hand in hand on small batch wines – sides or small plates, if you like, to their more familiar main courses.  Projects which reminded me about the passion and adventurous spirit behind these established brands at a point when, more often than not, speculation about take over bids for Treasury Wine Estates or splash the cash luxury packaged limited editions make the headlines.

Langhorne Creek: Blackwell vineyard’s grower Tony and Wolf Blass Chief Winemaker discuss what makes this an A grade Cabernet Sauvignon site Cabernet Sauvignon

So it was good to spend time with the people behind the brands who, to a man and woman, told me that the take over speculation simply washes over their heads.  Instead they keep their heads down and get on with the business of making wine.

Empty glasses: Wynns Single Vineyard Wines are elegant & terroir translucent

At Wynns my pick of their small batch projects is undoubtedly Wynns single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons (sometimes Cabernet Shiraz), the first of which was made in 2001.  I admit I’m still puzzled by the only one single vineyard a year approach which, incidentally, was honoured in the breach with the latest 2010 vintages simply because there will be no follow on 2011.

Single vineyard soils types

Anyway, I’m glad it was because I was mightily charmed by the Alex 88 single vineyard wine which made the cut both in 2010 and 2006.  When I queried the decision with Chief Winemaker Sue Hodder her take was “where do you stop” and, to be fair, I suppose having some 800ha of vineyard at your disposal does rather require a focus of energies!

Chris Hatcher & his number 2 Steven Frost show off Wolf Blass Estates of the Barossa sub-regional Shiraz

On the other hand, Wolf Blass’ Estates of the Barossa project allows you to taste four different sub-regional Shiraz side-by-side  – a revealing exercise (to be reported in full) which resonated with a Barossa Grounds’ sub-regional tasting I attended in 2010.

Wolf Blass White Winemaker Matt O’Leary with company viticulturist Roger Schmidt at the Rogers vineyard, Eden Valley

Wolf Blass’ White Label wines were new to me but I was particularly struck by the tightly wound, flinty Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2012 which is sourced from two rather chilly Piccadilly grower vineyards – trust me, I shivered.  Meanwhile the Riesling from the oldest (1959) vines at the company’s visually indolent Eden Valley vineyard was un-Wolfishly tight, mineral and austere.

Saltram Winemaker Shavaughn Wells watches her step in the Schutz vineyard, Eden Valley

Back in the day, Saltram Metala wines were an Oddbins’ staff favourite drawing as they did on old vine fruit.  Another old vine Shiraz has recently crept into the portfolio, twice making the cut for the top “The Journal Centenarian” Shiraz.  The Schutz vineyard in Eden Valley was planted in 1901 and appears to owe its rude good health to the cows which fertilise the rows.  A first for me to see cow pats in a vineyard!

But the cows are clearly respectful of the vines, this one hinting at the balance I most certainly found in the very fine 2010 vintage.

And it’s not just Barossa business as usual at Saltram.  Winemaker Shavaughn Wells is enamoured of Fiano and I can see why.  Without doubt, this textural wine is the most exciting example I’ve tasted from Australia; Sangiovese and Tempranillo show promise too.