The Bordeaux varieties impress at Herdade dos Coelheiros, Alentejo

This week I’ve at last made it out to Lisbon to judge at the Concorso Nacional de Vinho 2012. No problems with volcanic ash clouds this year and, with a fair wind on tomorrow’s return journey, I should be back just in the nick of time for a dinner in honour of Decanter Man of the Year, Paul Symington.

So, with Portugal on my mind, today’s blog focuses on Alentejo’s Herdade dos Coelheiros, whose wines I recently tasted for the first time. They made quite an impression me because, without sacrificing Alentejo’s warm, earthy style, the estate makes great use of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in its blends while, flying solo, a Petit Verdot blew my socks off. If you’re a fan of Barossa or McLaren Vale reds (of which I’ve been tasting a lot lately), you’ll like these too.

Here are my notes:

Herdade dos Coelheiros Tapada dos Coelheiros 2008 (VR Alentejano)

An earthy blend of Aragones, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon. A rich mid-palate shows toasty raspberry and blackberry fruit, with savoury black olive and tobacco leaf notes. Ripe but grainy tannins and well balanced acidity make for a persistent finish. Very well done. 14.5%

Herdade dos Coelheiros Tapada dos Coelheiros Garrafeira 2007 (VR Alentejano)

Lots of lift – eucalyptus and violets – to this firmly structured, youthful blend of Aragones and Cabernet Sauvignon. In the mouth it shows tight knit red cherry and blackcurrant fruit, with bayleaf spice, well supported by ripe but present tannins. Very much a food wine and one which would benefit from a couple of years in bottle to loosen up. 14%

Herdade dos Colheiros Tapada dos Coelheiros Petit Verdot 2006 (VR Alentejano)

This deeply coloured, well structured red is immensely rich and complex for a single varietal wine. Black berry & currant fruit is seamlessly integrated with layers of bay leaf, spice, woodsmoke, tapenade, dark chocolate and vanilla. Long and lingering, it’s a hugely satisfying yet balanced wine with powerful ripe tannins. A really successful segue of fruity and savoury characters. 14.5%

Herdade dos Coelheiros Branca de Almeida Tinto 2006 (VR Alentejano)

This time, Merlot gets a look in, here blended with Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet. Deeply coloured with a rich, warm, spicy, earthy nose and palate with a ripe core of velvety blackcurrant and plum. Plenty of nuance too – bay leaf, cassia bark, liquorice, leather and cooler menthol note. The finish is long, well structured and spicy. Very good indeed.