Rich pickings at Liberty portfolio tasting: 40 Australian wines to watch out for

With over 700 Australian wines on show at Wine Australia’s Independence Day trade tasting this Thursday, it was good to make inroads and taste the latest releases from Liberty’s classy Australian portfolio last week.

You’ll find my many tasting highlights below and click here, here and here for my earlier reports on Jeffrey Grosset’s 2012 Rieslings, Shaw & Smith’s 2012 Sauvignon Blanc and M3 Chardonnay and new (very good if ambitiously priced) Tasmanian listings, Dawson & James Chardonnay 2010 (RRP £46.99) and Dawson & James Pinot 2010 (£54.99).

Top wines?  Lots of highlights but, no doubt in my mind about my picks of the bunch – all sublime – Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2012, Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay 2010, By Farr Tout Pres Geelong Pinot Noir 2010 and Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2010.  Got to order some Grosset while I can still afford it!

Plantagenet Omrah Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Great Southern)

An aromatic, bright, juicy Sauvignon with ripe passionfruit and, going through, more finely honed, crisp apple.  In good form and expect it to get better with former Mud House winemaker Cath Oates at the helm here as of July 2012.  RRP £11.99

Plantagenet Omrah Pinot Noir 2011 (Great Southern)

Plantagenet’s Pinot Noirs have been getting smarter this last few years and this is no exception – its sweet red fruits balanced by savoury beetroot and five spice.  Nice persistence and length. RRP £12.99

Plantagenet Great Southern Riesling 2011 (Great Southern)

Less austere than usual, this forward Riesling is underpinned by ripe citrus acidity and shows a honeyed, blossom nose and palate; long, balanced and fine. Worth noting that the follow on vintage was awarded trophies for Best 2012 Riesling, Best White Wine, and Best Wine of Show at the Qantas Wine Show of Western Australia.  RRP £14.99

Plantagenet Great Mount Barker Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (Great Southern)

Classic Cabernet – highly polished with glossy cassis, black currant and berry fruit, bay leaf, cedar and savoury oak notes; fine tannins and well balanced acidity make for a poised wine.  £22.99

Cullen Mangan Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2011 (Margaret River)

Though it has the pithy, alert fresh lime I associate with this wine, in this vintage (a blend of 58% Sauvignon Blanc and 42% Semillon aged in 20% French oak, of which 28% was new), it seems more expansive – less in a hurry to reveal its layers of bay leaf and minerals. Indeed, more mineral, less bosky/earthy too.  Very long and persistent with lots of mouthfeel and texture and beautifully integrated pebbly acidity.  Excellent.  RRP £22.99

Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay 2010 (Margaret River)

Since I had a sneak preview of this powerful wine in July 2011 at Cullen’s 40^th anniversary verticals (click here for my report), it has stretched out to reveal its lithe and languorous fruit.  This is a muscular, but sensual Chardonnay, with deep reserves of rock melon, honeyed pear and white peach; a touch of smoky oak too. Long and ever so lingering with its floral, honeyed fruit, a piquant undertow of salty minerals and seamlessly integrated sheen of natural acidity.  One of my wines of the tasting.  RRP £64.99

Cullen Mangan Vineyard Merlot/Petiti Verdot/Malbec 2010 (Margaret River)

An unusually vibrant blend of the non-Cabernet varieties – quite Italianate with its violet perfume, juicy red and black cherry and fleshier plum.  An attractive savoury lick of liquorice and cinnamon spice too.  Fine ripe but present powdery tannins and tangy acidity make this mid-weight red an attractive food wine. RRP £27.99

By Farr Geelong Chardonnay 2011 (Geelong)

When I interviewed Nick Farr about this widely regarded as tricky (wet, cool) vintage in 2011 (click here for my video), he told me he and his dad were really excited by the savoury intensity of the wines – “the most Burgundian flavours ever”.  Though it has a pure core of white peach and pear fruit of lovely clarity, with spice and bacon fat, this is a much more savoury interpretation of the grape than the Cullen Kevin John.  A satisfying, muscular, textural Chardonnay, plenty of palate presence and yet understated and firmly dry.  Very good indeed.  Rrp £46.99

By Farr Farrside Geelong Pinot Noir 2010 (Geelong)

This really spicy, powerfully framed Pinot Noir, wears it whole bunch ferment on its sleeve – a spiciness which lends great animation and line to this weighty Pinot.  For it has no shortage of amplitude, with its girth of dark berry and cherry fruits, layered with liquorice, oak spice and earth.  Firm, ripe tannins and persistent acidity frame a long, involving finish.  A baby.  Very good.  RRP £47.99

By Farr Tout Pres Geelong Pinot Noir 2010 (Geelong)

Unsurprisingly (this hails from a densely-planted 9,000 vines per hectare vineyard), save for the spice (I think it will come), this has more of everything and the rest! Imposing chalky tannins, bright acidity, concentrated but vivid sour cherry fruit and bucket-loads of earth – from cool, tangy clay to “riper” farmyard and forest floor.  Barn-storming stuff!  Huge potential.  RRP £75.99

William Downie Gippsland Pinot Noir 2010 (Gippsland)

Last time I tasted Downie’s 2010 Pinots (September 2011 – see here), I found this wine gangly and the Yarra Valley Pinot pretty and perfumed.  Today was a bad hair day for the Yarra Pinot, which seemed out of sorts.  Conversely, the Gippsland Pinot showed well – animated and intense with bright cherry fruit, a lively vein of acidity, savoury earthy, dark chocolate and ruffled, velvety tannins. Dry, long finish.  Very good.  RRP £48.99

William Downie Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2010 (Mornington Peninsula)

Long, youthfully tight and animated with sour cherry, juicy blackberry and tarter rhubarb notes anchored by textured, suede-like tannins, which makes for a vivid yet grounded palate.   Five spice and salty mineral notes chime in on a long finish.  Very expressive.  My pick of the three on today’s form.  RRP £48.99

Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling 2012 (Clare Valley)

So aromatic, on the nose and in the mouth, with its exotic Turkish delight/rose petal lift.  But make no mistake about its drive – it’s racy and pacy too, fine and very persistent, with juicy, jewel-like lime fruit and a finish which glistens with minerals.  Lovely.  £17.99

Mount Horrocks Watervale Semillon 2011 (Clare Valley)

In this cool year, this Semillon carries not an ounce of fat and there’s a sublime quality to its freshly squeezed lemon core – perhaps it’s that it’s less fruity and more fruit scented.  At any rate, very fine, with its customary deftly judged veneer of pungent, flinty, smoky oak.  Terrific.  RRP £19.99

Mount Horrocks Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (Clare Valley)

A really good example of Clare Valley Cabernet fresh, perfumed and spicy with a juicy core of sweet cassis, a lick of dried herbs, toasty oak and melt in the mouth tannins.  Very polished and ready to go.  RRP 19.99

Willunga 100 Viognier 2012 (Adelaide Hills)

Musky, tropical apricot fruit with sweeter, zestier pineapple chunks beneath.  A savoury note lends balance.  Well done.  RRP £11.99

Willunga 100 Tempranillo 2012 (McLaren Vale)

A floral, sappy Tempranillo with fresh blackberry and apple fruit, hints of dried herbs and ripe but present chalky fruit tannins for bottom and balance.  Clear eyed, mid-weight joven style.  Well done.  RRP £11.99

Willunga 100 Shiraz Viognier 2010 (McLaren Vale)

Ticks all the boxes for this style with its peppery nose and palate of juicy, fleshy bllod plum; nice grip too.  Well done.  £9.99

Willunga 100 Cabernet/Shiraz 2010 (McLaren Vale)

The quality of this vintage for reds really shines through with this wine.  The Cabernet is firmly in the driving seat – strong on the attack and finish with its sleek, well-defined blackcurrant and cassis and lick of bay leaf.  The Shiraz sings not too sweetly on the mid-palate, making for a polished whole.  Classy and pleasurably balanced at £9.99.

Innocent Bystander Pinot Gris 2011 (Yarra Valley)

A cool year works well for the whites, less so the Pinot Noir, which I found a touch dilute and green.  For the Pinot Gris, the vintage lends fine balancing acidity to this sweet-scented, savoury, honeyed Pinot Gris.  Nice varietal typicity.  RRP £14.99

Innocent Bystander Chardonnay 2011 (Yarra Valley)

And the vintage makes for a crisp, fresh appley Chardonnay too.  Well-toned with a lick of honey, it’s nicely balanced and lingers.  RRP £14.99

Mitolo Jester McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 (McLaren Vale)

A rich, chocolatey yet dry Shiraz with spicy, dark berry fruit; well balanced.  RRP £13.99

Mitolo GAM McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 (McLaren Vale)

An inky Shiraz, deep-fruited and dark with minty lift and savoury leather notes; firm but ripe mouth-coating tannins suggest a long life ahead.  RRP £34.99

Dandelion Wonderland of Eden Valley Riesling 2011 (Eden Valley)

A sweet applely nose belies its dry palate with its crunchy crab apple bite.  Lovely purity and tang.  Different and very good.  11.5%  RRP £12.99

Dandelion Pride of Fleurieu Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (Southern Fleurieu)

More good looking 2010 Fleurieu Cabernet, this time from a single vineyard due south of McLaren Vale.  This shows concentrated but well defined cassis and fresh blackcurrant fruit, with lifted mint and fine grained tannins.  Fruit-focused style, but well done – like a super-supple Coonawarra Cab.  RRP £11.99

Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2011 (Hilltops)

Very lifted and peppery with orange peel/bergamot notes – it always surprises me that this has no Viognier.  It’s not the most concentrated of vintages given the weather that year but, with its blackberry fruits, cool tang of clay and ripe but present tannins, it’s got plenty of drinkability and charm.  RRP £19.99

Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier 2010 (Canberra District)

Cathedral spices – arcs of incense and five spice – infuse this bright and beautiful wine’s plum, red cherry and berry fruit.  Teased out by spice and a fine spine of tannin, this is long and ultra-persistent with a mineral undertow of acidity. Dare I say it, haunting, staying with you long after the swallow, for this is not a wine to spit! RRP £66.99

John Duval Plexus Marsanne/Roussanne/Viognier 2011 (Barossa Valley)

I’m a big fan of this understated Barossa white which, in 2011 is a marvel of restraint with its waxy but delicate stone and white orchard fruits, a hint of fennel too.  Textural with a cool, crisp finish.  Very accomplished.  £22.99

John Duval Plexus Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvedre 2008 (Barossa Valley)

Ripe sweet jube notes to the nose, though the palate is darker, with ripe but juicy, fleshy berry fruits and supple tannins.  Lovely balance and mouthfeel.  RRP £26.99

 John Duval Entity Shiraz 2009 (Barossa Valley)

A beautifully crafted Shiraz, svelte and pure with well-focused bright fruit and melt in the mouth tannins, which make for a long fluid finish.  An elegant Barossa Shiraz; well-priced too.  RRP £29.99

Balnaves Coonawarra Cabernet/Merlot 2010 (Cooanwarra)

Tight minty blackcurrant and fleshier blackberry and loganberry fruit is firmly underpinned by tannins.  Impressive concentration and structure.  Needs time.  RRP £22.99

Balnaves Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (Cooanwarra)

Plenty of heft and structure to this super-tight-knit minty Cabernet’s vivid concentration of black and red currant fruit.  Almost makes the Cabernet/Merlot look forward so firm is its buttress of tannin.  Batten the cellar hatches on this one.  One to review.  RRP £29.99