June Wines of the Month: Margaret River calling, old dogs new tricks…

Last month’s London International Wine Fair threw up a couple of Margaret River beauts that make the cut for June’s Wines of the Month.  

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

This proved a big hit at a masterclass I presented on behalf of Margaret River Wine Industry Association – hats off to winemaker Paul Attwood who, in 2002, was put in charge of Leeuwin Estate’s new red wine programme aimed at refining the Cabernet and elevating it to the standard of Leeuwin’s iconic Chardonnay.  Job done.  Moreover firm but fine rather than fleshy, it’s been done without compromising Leeuwin’s southerly (cooler) Margaret River roots.  It shows intense,well focused and defined blackcurrant and damson fruit with a savoury edge of cedar spice wed to firm but ripe tannins.  Long and cool, with earth and mineral notes to the finish, this is very much a food wine and Leeuwin recommend pairing it with roast duck breast, orange glaze and boulangerie potatoes.  Or roast beef would do! £29.95 at Wine Direct, £33.95 at Slurp and available via the importer, Domaine Direct (minimum order of one case, which can be mixed).

Vasse Felix Estate Chardonnay 2009/10

Though the Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay 2007 was in magnificent form (click here for Jeremy William’s report of the masterclass), for my Wine of the Month I’ve plumped for Vasse Felix’s Estate Chardonnay.  Anyone who has met winemaker Virginia Willcock will know she’s a human dynamo and, since joining Vasse Felix in 2007, she’s gone great guns withChardonnay, using wild yeasts and solids to great effect while letting the fruit sing, Margaret River style. What’s more, the Estate Chardonnay is on deal at Majestic at the mo so it’s not just the real deal, it’s also a real steal!   I tasted the 2009 vintage at the wine fair, which is tight, flinty and subtly (and deliciously) smoky/toasty/nutty on nose and palate with a beautifully focused citrus-fuelled palate of grapefruit and lemon, rock/canteloupe melon too – great length and line.  The 2010 vintage, which I tasted last week, shows slightly more ripe, perfumed rock melon notes, which juicily fleshes out that tight, citric Margaret River backbone of acidity.  Both are very good indeed. £12.49 or £9.99 when you buy any 2 Australian wines at Majestic (usual minimum purchase applies – 6 bottles in store/12 bottles online).