July Wines of the Month: an Azorean white & Grampians red

My July Wines of the Month are stellar examples of wines with a great sense of place and regionality.  A quality which I treasure – love to see the terroir over the winemaking.  Both would make great summer drinking.

Fita Preta Signature Series Arinto do Açores 2013 (Vinho Regional Açores)

I am just back from visiting the Azores, including the dramatic island of Pico, its most productive/planted in terms of vines.  Of course I’m speaking relatively for the archipelago’s islands are small – Pico has around 100ha of field blend bush vines of which 95% comprise this unique to the island variety, Arinto do Açores. Master Sommelier João Pires selected it for a tasting at 10 Fest Azores – a brilliant showcase for the produce of the island and the talent of local and international chefs.   The island is best known for its licoroso Verdelho wines which, planted in volcanic rock very near the ocean, are salty, mineral and very fresh (with high acidity).  Qualities which are even more pronounced in the dry white wines which increasingly feature in the Pico’s repertoire (more on both styles to follow shortly – watch this space).  Antonio Maçanita of Fita Preta has crafted a super-intense, bracing example with terrific nervosity and the subtly leesy texture I associate with his wines.  Tightly wound, its lemony fruit is shot through with minerals and salt.  And it’s definitely a saltiness, not salinity (dry rock/sea salt not salt solution), so punchy and piquant which meant it ran very well with Ricardo Costa’s first course of paprika dusted cracas (barnacles) e sapateira (crab) com vichyssoise, pictured. It had the weight and intensity to match this dish despite its pronounced linearity.  13.5%

The Society’s Exhibition Victoria Shiraz 2010 (Victoria)

2012 and 2010 produced some fantastic wines and, for me, 2010s just seem to be particularly fine, like this wine which is made for the society by Mount Langi Ghiran.  I’d visited with the then winemaker Dan Buckle that year and this Pinot Noir lover was employing Burgundian techniques to great effect with Shiraz.  This wine underwent whole-bunch maceration which enhances the estate’s/Grampian region’s renowned peppery fruit bringing wonderful lift and liveliness to its ultra-juicy, persistent palate of fleshy plum and blood plum fruit.  Ripe but present, gently textured tannins also make this a wine to savour.  Outstanding.  13.5% £17.50 at The Wine Society https://www.thewinesociety.com/