Jasper Hill Cornella Vineyard 2005: a sumptuous, balanced Grenache from Heathcote

At last Thursday’s Harvey Nichols’ staff training (see here) Teusner Joshua 2007, a Barossa Valley Grenache Mourvedre Shiraz blend proved a big hit with the sommeliers, one of whom remarked on its Pinot Noir-like character.  Music to the ears of Barossa artisans like Kym Teusner who are seeking to bring out the finer qualities of the thin-skinned, smooth tannined Grenache which, especially in warmer regions, can taste confected and over-alcoholic.  I’m sure fruit from deep-rooted old vines helps to avoid the variety’s excesses – the vines are less likely to shut down during heat spikes and drought.  But what of the equally equable Jasper Hill Cornella Vineyard Grenache 2005 from Heathcote, Victoria whose 4 hectares were only planted in 1998?

Here, prevailing cool south to south-east winds that blow throughout the growing season undoubtedly help keep the heat degree days down, as does altitude (the vineyard is at  330 metres).  And perhaps the region’s famously aged (500 millions years old) Cambrian soils play a part too.  They’re said to account for the dark hue of its famously inky Shiraz and, even at five years old, the Cornella Grenache is a deep purplish hue, its fruit more black cherry than red cherry.  At any rate, this is an utterly delicious, seductive wine whose fleshy summer compote fruit, supple tannins and cinnamon spice also put me in mind of Pinot Noir, but there’s more generosity here, with dark chocolate and chocolate orange emerging in the glass as it opens up.  Sumptuously weighty yet balanced.  £26.50 at Yapp Wine Merchants.