International Grenache Day – my tip top examples of the year

Although I shall spend the day tasting Cabernet Sauvignon for a Decanter Margaret River panel tasting, today is International Grenache Day.  So instead of my usual Friday retro-post, the least I can do is highlight my favourite examples over the last year or so.  

As you can see, I’ve been particularly enchanted by Australia’s fabulous new wave, lifted and lithe Grenaches.  McLaren Vale and the Barossa dominate the list, but Col McBryde of Adelina (just listed by Astrum Wine Cellars) makes a terrific example in Clare Valley.

The list highlights how Grenache is a grape on the up.  Especially Grenache made in a ‘warm climate Pinot Noir’ style.  As one Melbourne restaurateur memorably put it, “Grenache delivers what Pinot Noir promises.”  For a good deal less money at that.

I’d add that I could have recommended an over-brimming hatful of other fine examples.  Other names to watch out for include d’Arenberg (especially their Amazing Site flagship wines), Samuel’s Gorge (now being imported by Tilley’s Wines), Year Wines, Jauma, Chapel Hill, Thistledown (all McLaren Vale), Rusden, Sucette, Ruggabellus, Teusner, Spinifex, John Duval, Charles Melton, Twelftree, Purple Hands, Yelland & Papps, Seppeltsfield, Kalleske, Rockford, Torbreck (Barossa, many of whom produce Rhone blends) & Clos Clare and Kilikanoon in Clare Valley.  Quite a few of these wines are made in a richer, heady style – more South of France (think Collioure) than Burgundy.

If you’ve not tuned in to new wave Australian Grenache yet, make it your next wine adventure!  And check out this report of my Australian Grenache Masterclass of last year for a steer on its past, present and future down under.

Ochota Barrels Fugazi Grenache 2014 (McLaren Vale)

Taras and Amber Ochota’s Grenache pushes the envelope in a style which Taras describes as being about “no flavour ripeness here just crunchy red nervous energy….Sapid sensations which mimic cool climate Pinot.”  This alchemy is achieved in a number of ways.  Right vineyard for starters, which he picks early (at 12-13.5 Baume, with a pH which can be close to 3.0), lots of whole bunch (c. 80%) and extended skin contact – “12 weeks is not uncommon…The trick is the pressing decision is made entirely on the texture and slinkiness of the tannins so generally extended times on skins.” The outcome?  A strikingly medium-bodied, sappily fresh and focused Grenache with vivid, crunchy red cherry fruit and slinky tannins.  Luminous and intense. 13.8% £28.50 at Honest Grapes, £28.95 at Wine Direct.

S C Pannell Grenache 2012 (McLaren Vale)

I’ve waxed lyrical about Pannell’s Grenache before.  I reckon this is his best yet.  From a 70 year old vineyard (Old McDonald vineyard) it has classic old vine musk and spice to nose and layered palate and, best of all, a quite formidable structure.  For Pannell,  it’s as important to express Grenache’s tannins as the fruit and this brilliant example of his touchstone McLaren Vale variety has the energetic “rasping, sandy Grenache tannins like a piece of sandpaper dragged over your palate” which we evidently both love.  They underwrite a long, extended finish, anchoring its taut, very focused and not in the least confected red cherry from A to Z.  This wine was aged for 14 months in old French oak puncheons.  £27/bottle at case of 6 rate at Wine Direct, £30.50 at The Halifax Wine Company

S C Pannell Old McDonald Grenache 2014 (McLaren Vale)

Muskier, more perfumed than the 2012, with silky, langorous fruit.  Really lovely but the 2012 gets my vote for its tightly wound, superbly structured palate.  14%

Yangarra Estate Old Vine Grenache 2013 (Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale)

The fruit came from 69 year old vines atop the ridge at 200 – 211m on deep sand.  It was hand-picked, de-stemmed and sorted; the resulting whole berries were tipped into open fermenters (to avoid macerating the skins) and cold-soaked for 5-6 days prior to naturally fermenting.  After about 12-14 days, the wine was pressed to older French barriques and aged on the lees for approximately 9 months prior to blending. The wine received no fining, just filtration.  It’s more expressive/effusive than the pot wine, spicier too, with a lovely freshness and chalky, or should I say sandy, tannins.  Lovely. The alcohol is worn very lightly (and in all the wines). 14.5% £21.95 at Slurp

Yangarra Estate High Sands Grenache 2013 (Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale)

A micro-selection (just two barrels) from the 6 blocks of 1946 Grenache taken from the very top of the estate. There is a circle of the lowest vigour vines in Block 25, and a similar section in Block 31, both adjacent to Schuller Road. Winemaking techniques aim to express the minerality of the deep sand, a more intense fruit expression and grittier tannin structure.  It was open fermented (natural yeasts) with a careful regime of plunging, rack and returns. The free run was drained off direct to barrel (1 year old French oak) and kept on lees for at least 12 months.  In total the Grenache spent 15-18 months in barrel. Deeper fruited, complex with kirsch, very pronounced Turkish delight (musky florals) and sandy, chalky tannins.  Long and as balanced – deep rooted– as the vines, with great clarity of expression.  A very serious Grenache. 14% £306.25/case of 6 at Wineye/Nickolls & Perks (vintage not specified)

Yangarra Estate High Sands Grenache 2012 (Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale)

Peter Fraser – Winemaker of the Year, 2016 James Halliday Wine Companion.

Cooler, bluer fruits well supported by sandy tannins and rolling acidity make for lovely fluidity with precision – great line and length. £306.25/case of 6 at Wineye/Nickolls & Perks (vintage not specified)

Wirra Wirra The Absconder Grenache 2014 (McLaren Vale)

Sourced from two vineyards, with c. 80% of the Grenache coming from Warraminga 99 years old (Blewitt Springs on Maslins Sand and calcareous sandstone).  The balance came from Wait Block, which was planted in the 1950s (Onkaparinga Gorge, on red brown clay loam).  The average yield is 3-4 t/ha.  This highly contemporary, vividly youthful pretty in pink/ruby Grenache is equally vivid on nose and finely honed palate.  Super-juicy red cherry and plum with a scintilla of kirsch makes for a moreish and motile mouthful – really persistent.   A touch of whole bunch (5%) adds complexing Campari florals and herbal notes with a twist of white pepper.  The tannins are sandpaper fine but vividly (that word again) present, reinforcing depth and length.     A great example of old vines given full voice, without much interference from winemaking artefact (it was aged in seasoned French oak for 9 months).  And very delicious now. 14.28% abv.  UK RRP £35

Ministry of Clouds Grenache 2013 (McLaren Vale)

This single vineyard on loam over ironstone Grenache comes from 66 year old vines in McLaren Flat.  On the upslope of McLaren Vale range it benefits from cold air drainage from the hill.  Being north-facing, it’s a relatively early site and produces beautiful, very lively pure, very juicy sluiced fruit which retains acidity and fragrance very well.  A delicacy which is retained by ageing this wine in a 3000l old French oak foudre.  The texture has a lovely granular quality (this wine saw 10% whole bunch) 13.8%

Ministry of Clouds Grenache 2014 (McLaren Vale)

From two vineyards in very different parts of McLaren Vale.  Eighty per cent hails from Sue Trott’s Blewitt Springs’ small-berried bush vines (a 2015 sample revealed spicy, well structured fruit with more pucker of acid and sandy tannins than the other site).  It was planted in the 1920s on grey sand over clay, some blocks quite stony.  The balance comes from a c. 20 year old south-facing block in the Mittillo vineyard just at the entrance to McLaren Vale, which is prized for its aromatics (a sample of the 2015 is loaded with orange peel, Campari and spice notes).  The south facing site is planted on deep white sand with mixed underlying geology. Deeper in hue than the 2013, the 2014 has the pronounced turkish delight inflection Forwood associates with Blewitt Springs.  Though concentrated, its blackcurrant and tight redcurrant core of fruit has a lovely translucency. Some old vine earthiness too.  This wine saw 10% whole bunch, which was layered in the middle of the ferment.  It was aged in old oak puncheons. 14.2%

Bekkers McLaren Vale Grenache 2013

This is the Bekker’s second straight Grenache (the first was the 2012) and, in 2013, it is from a single vineyard, Strout Road/ ‘Abri.  This dry grown vineyard was planted in the 1930s as bush vines and has since been trellised. With 20% whole bunches, it has a distinct savoury dried spice/herb/chinato note to its red cherry and bitter chocolate nose, which deliciously threads its way through the palate. The palate is very intense, with lovely freshness and simply beautiful purity and depth to its red juicy cherry and creamier raspberry fruit going through.  Velvety tannins reinforce its suppleness, persistent acidity pushes out a long finish.  The 2013 Grenache was aged for 18 months in French oak, mostly 500-600 puncheons.  None was new though it has to be said that, even where it was used in the Syrah/Syrah Grenache blend, it is worn lightly – a guiding rail for the fruit rather than a flavour component, just as Emma likes it.  This wine also carries its 15% abv with ease.  £240/6 under bond, which equates to £50.99 inc duty and VAT at Atlas Fine Wine

Clarendon Hills Clarendon Grenache 2012 (McLaren Vale)

Clarendon Hills make a range of terroir-focused Cru, Premier Cru and Grand Cru Grenache.  Just metres apart from the sister Cru class ‘Hickinbotham Grenache’ site but located on the cooler, more shaded south/south westerly side of the hill at around 310m. The soils are shale, ironstone and quartz.  This Grenache is very perfumed (floral, spicy), with very bright, well-defined red cherry fruit, kirsch and frangipane hints.  Although it is more approachable than the others, pretty even, make no mistake, this is a well-structured, focused wine, long and persistent with chalky, fine tannins and a muscular core of fruit.  Delicious.  14.5%

Clarendon Hills Hickenbotham Grenache 2012 (McLaren Vale)

Though it has a warmer north/north east aspect than the Clarendon vineyard, at 290 metres, the famous Hickinbotham vineyard is still a cool site in McLaren Vale terms.  The warmer exposure translates into a deeper hue and an impressive shower of exuberant blue/black fruits on scented nose and bountiful but balanced palate.  Terrific fruit purity, with the tannin structure and acid to provide length, layer and interest. 14.5%

Clarendon Hills Blewitt Springs Grenache 2012 (McLaren Vale)

Located in the Blewitt Springs sub-region this Premier Cru vineyard was planted in 1920 on a top soil of pure free-draining sand deposited some 20 million years ago which offers no resistance to the vines’ root system.  It produces a very perfumed, elegant, long and layered wine with lifted Turkish delight, red fruits, fusel/kirsch hints and an old vine earth’n spice “bottom” of star anise and warm terra cotta.  A long wheel base chassis of sandy, fine grained tannins carries a lingering finish.  A sensual wine.  Gorgeous. 14.5%

Clarendon Hills Kangarilla 2012 (McLaren Vale)

Located in the Kangarilla sub-region, at 64m this Premier Cru vineyard is the lowest, flattest of Clarendon Hills’ sites.  It was planted in 1945 on a topsoil of gravelly clay over deep limestone.  The extra soil moisture levels associated with the clays results in slightly higher yields and a higher natural acidity/low pH which makes for slow ageing wines; performs especially well in warmer years.  Where the Blewitt Springs is expressive, the Kangrilla is surprisingly elusive for a Grenache, surprisingly taut too with lots of mid-palate tension and a sour cherry twist to the finish. Definitely one to set aside to allow it to come out of its shell.  14.5%

Clarendon Hills Onkaparinga Grenache 2012 (McLaren Vale)

The Onkaparinga Grand Cru vineyard is on the same hillside as Blewitt Springs but located at the uppermost, west-facing hilltop area. All sites are within 200 metres of each other.  Deeper in colour than Blewitt Springs, it is initially quite shy – old vine earth and marzipan notes take precedence over its glimmers of blue fruit.  With time in glass the fruit becomes punchier (as in more assertive) and perfumed damask rose and star anise notes build.  Beautifully integrated, sly even, persistent acidity pulls you in and along a lively, showy extended trot finish.  Earth, game and dried spice old vines undertones win the day on a super long, savoury “dry” and involving finish.  Plenty still in the tank here.  The conversation is only just beginning.  14.5%

Clarendon Hills Romas Grenache 2012(McLaren Vale)

Romas is the steepest (+40˚ gradient in parts) and at 280 metres most elevated section of the Blewitt Springs site; this Grand Cru site was planted in 1920. It is approximately seven kilometres from the ocean and enjoys a perfect due east aspect.  On this rocky hill face 30 cm “tall” vines struggle to produce, yielding “a microscopic 0.5 tonne / acre.”  It is markedly different, much more mineral than the others, with inky florals and a pronounced iodine note to a tight, still quite closed palate.  The fruit seems almost on the backfoot, but one senses a great intensity of red and black fruits and exotic five-spice lurks beneath.  Firm yet fine tannins keep it on the rails.  Long, very linear.  Impressive; great finesse. I’d love to linger over a bottle of this in five years!  14.5%

First Drop The Matador Garnacha 2014 (Barossa)

Cirillo Estate Vincent Grenache 2014 (Barossa)

Fabulous fruit centre, purity and balance; a 2009 tasted at Fermentasian also fabulous

A hint of charcuterie/smokiness to the nose and palate.  The palate, silky, very fluid, reveals luminous (red) fruit – luminous for its light but bright, sappy presence.  Whole bunch riffs of spice, pepper and savoury (old vine) wood bring animation and depth.   Beautifully balanced; harmonious acidity brings freshness and length.  14%

Cirillo Estate Vincent Grenache 2013 (Barossa)

Bright crimson and sweetly expressive on the nose with Turkish Delight and wild red cherry fruit, which follow through on the palate together with darker but juicy blackberry.  Once again, the fruit is worn lightly – almost translucently – revealing great layer and lift of spice (Imperial Leather) and edgier (but very attractive) stemmy whole bunch notes.  Fine but present sandpapery tannins anchor the flavours and lend a super subtle rusticity to the whole.  A very serious but also seriously smashable Grenache, which delivers heaps of drinking pleasure now but should age well into the mid-term too.  Delicious.  14% £18.06/bottle (case price) at Barossa & Beyond

Cirillo Estate 1850 Grenache 2010 (Barossa)

The 1850 Grenache’s spectacular intensity and concentration of fruit sets it apart.  Waves of plush, fleshy Barossa plum and black cherry wash creamily over the mid-palate and linger.  A tighter core of cassis is yet to be fully mined. Savoury oak and mineral notes emerge going through.  Tapering into the finish, sandpaper tannins and fresh, clean acidity firmly anchor and extend the fruit.  A baby; so much more to give.  I’d love to check in with this vintage again as a 10 or 20 year old Museum Release.  14.2% £34.80/bottle (case price) at Barossa & Beyond

Yalumba Old Bush Vine Grenache 2014 (Barossa)

Yalumba’s highly consistent old (35-80 year old) vine entry level Grenache is a great buy.  It’s dry, with grainy tannins and floral (violet) lift to its pretty redcurrant and creamier red berry fruit. £11.75 at Slurp, £12 at Morrisons

Yalumba Tri-Centenary Grenache 2011 (Barossa Valley, South Australia)

Yalumba’s Tricentenary Grenache is sourced from the Graetz vineyard, which was acquired quite recently.  The Grenache was planted 1889 on deep sandy loam with red-brown clay; average yield 3-4t/acres.  The wine is a deeper, darker hue than The Absconder with a jubey sweet edge and richer, rounder mid-palate of raspberry and plum (even in 2011). Campari, Imperial Leather/incense spice and orange peel notes add lift and layer.  With lingering, spicy intensity and savoury, textural tannins, it put me in mind of fine Chateauneuf-du-Pape.    The wine remained on skins for 35 days post-fermentation and was aged for 7 months in seasoned French oak hogshead. Drinking well now but will benefit from air and bottle age to really strut its stuff. 13.5% abv UK RRP £32

Head Wines ‘Old Vine’ Grenache 2014 (Barossa Valley)

It’s good to see the Barossa Old Vine Charter invoked on the labels of this wine and the next.  Head works with several old vine Grenache vineyards, including one in Vine Vale from 1850 – I’m guessingMarco Cirillo’s excellent vineyard, since he used to work there.  However this wine comes from the best performing Barossa Valley Grenache vineyard each year.  In 2014 it was a from a significantly younger plot near Krondorf, planted around 1942 on red and brown cracking clays at 250m on the eastern ridge of the Barossa Valley.  The vineyard was split hand-picked at 14% and 15% potential alcohol over a week. This is a deep-fruited, concentrated but highly expressive Grenache.  Fifty percent of the fruit was green harvested and shoot thinned, so why not show off its sweet and creamy black cherry, blueberry and tangier, pippier fruits of the forest.  Pretty floral notes build with time in glass.  Super svelte and lingering.  This wine was fermented with whole berries, 15% whole-bunch and hand plunged and foot trodden twice daily for 20 days. It was racked once during elevage of 12 months in larger, older barrels. 14.5%

Head Wines ‘Ancestor Vine’ Grenache 2014 (Eden Valley)

I am not sure if I have tasted a pure Eden Valley Grenache before.  Scratches head…. Anyway, this examples comes from a 155 year old vineyard on brown sandy loam at 400m near Springton to the south of Eden Valley.  It’s a very different animal, with a finer acid and firmer tannin structure.  Earthier too, with the scent of loamy, almost chocolatey earth and savoury beetroot, but with no sweetness (cocoa).  The tannins cradle the sweet red berry and cherry fruit and provide length, anchoring the flavours on a long, long, firm, dry (for Grenache) finish.  With an old vine edge of woody, dried spices and dried herbs, it seems to transmit their very essence – gnarly and complex – no vertical shoot positioning here.  Ditto on day two.  Terrific. It was whole berry fermented with 30% whole bunches in a wooden vat and hand plunged and foot trodden twice daily for 3 weeks. Racked once during elevage of 12 months in used thick staved 600L demi-muid “with a small addition of old vine mourvedre for balance.” 14.5%

Adelina Grenache 2014 (Clare Valley)

Fermented in 3500l and 2000l concrete tanks, where it spent 60 days on skins before being pressed to barrel.  The 2014 Grenache reveals a sweet core of red fruits with flashes of blackberry and sandy, textural tannins.   Persistent acidity carries a long finish with earthy, woody raspberry and, I simply cannot better McBryde’s description, “Imperial Leather” spice notes.  It captures very well the slightly soapy/glycerol buffer to the spices – for me an old vine signifier!  14.6%

Adelina Grenache 2012 (Clare Valley)

One of my February Wines of the Month and still in fine form with great acid line and lovely bright, tight but sweet red fruits – redcurrant, cherry and pomegranate – with an exotic, rounder tang of satsuma and blood plum. A fine swathe of tannins and juicy acidity tease out a long finish. 14.6%