Heida hi! Swiss wines: a tasting with Chandra Kurt & Jean-René Germanier

They say variety is the spice of life and I’m all for it especially, as you know, when it comes to Portugal’s veritable treasure trove of over 400 indigenous varieties! 

In this spirit, last month I wandered off piste.  Where?  Don’t say I didn’t give you a clue – to Switzerland, or at least to a tasting with top Swiss wine writer Chandra Kurt whom I met (pictured by Ilkka Siren) at Niepoort Big Day tasting, also leading producer Jean-René Germanier.   

Collection Chandra Kurt, Kurt’s eponymous label (which is made in conjunction with the oenolgists at Provins), is focused on ancient and obscure varieties native to the Valais while Germanier, also based in the Valais, works with both indigenous and so-called international varieties.  

At 5,200 hectares, the Valais in the Upper Rhone is Switzerland’s largest wine region and lays claim to around 60 different native grape varieties.  I’d only come across one of these varieties before, Petit Arvine, to which I was introduced in Geneva.  But given that, with only 15,000ha under vine total, Switzerland accounts for just 0.01% of global production of which the Swiss drink around 95%, it’s hardly surprising that Swiss wines are under the radar  and your best chance to taste them is to visit!  

Here are some wines to watch out for as and when you’re Switzerland-bound, though the good news is you can buy one of my favourites, Collection Chandra Kurt Heida 2009, in the UK.  Though all from the Valais, Kurt’s wines have a lightness of touch which appealed more to me.  

White wines

Collection Chandra Kurt Humagne Blanche 2009 (Valais) – the fact that it’s a shy yielder and disease prone perhaps explains why there’s no evidence of Humagne Blanche growing outside the Valais.  The variety, which traces its history in the region back to the early 14th century, was known as the “wine for women in childbirth” because of its high iron content – beats spinach!  This wine was slowly fermented for over 40 days and aged in stainless steel; it did not undergo malolactic fermentation.  Nonetheless, it’s quite textured, earthy and round with an attractive cheese rind note to the nose and palate as well as lifted aniseed.  Balanced acidity brings freshness to the finish.  I can well understand the recommendation to pair this with raclette and alpine cheese dishes.  Apparently it develops resinous notes and acacia honey after 3-4 years.  13% abv

Collection Chandra Kurt Heida 2009  (Valais) – Heida is the Valais name for Savagnin Blanc (also known as Tramin and Paien).  This wine, which also sees no oak or malo, comes from the highest vineyard in Europe which rises to 1,150m.  It shows lovely delicacy on the nose which is fresh, floral and lifted.  In the mouth, there good texture (it’s lees-aged and stirred), length and persistence with surprising depth of ripe, sweet citrus fruit, also white asparagus.  Very complete, pleasurable drinking and this one’s available in the UK!  As Kurt suggests, a great fish wine.  £24.95 at Harrods.  14% abv.

Collection Chandra Kurt Amigne 2009 (Valais) – this rare variety is, like Humagne Blanche grown exclusively in the Valais where there remain just 24 ha, 19 of them in the commune of Vetroz .  It’s usually vinified sweet because of its tendency to millerandage and propensity to high sugars.  This was my least favourite of Kurt’s three white wines, less balanced with a touch of alcoholic warmth, though its al dente slightly tannic mouthfeel added interest.  Perhaps an acquired taste! 

Jean-René Germanier Petit Arvine Barrique 2008 (Valais) – Germanier said that this is Switzerland’s most famous white variety – apparently Angelo Gaja tried to plant it in Piedmont but it didn’t flourish.  Though typically unoaked, Germanier fermented this best vine reserve selection in barrel, which you pick up on the smoky, toasty nose.  In the mouth, the oak lends structure and is well integrated with the ripe citrus/tangerine fruit; a backbone of acidity brings length while the finish has a very salty, mineral quality which Germanier described as a signature note.  Apparently top wines like this will age for up to 10 years.  This 3 year old is certainly youthful.  Very good.  13%

Jean-René Germanier Mitis Amigne 2007 (Valais) – another reserve wine, also barrel fermented, this one a late harvest example from the Amigne variety’s heartland, the commune of Vetroz in Valais.  The grapes were harvested in mid-December and were affected by botrytis.  Aged on the lees in new French oak for 18 months it’s an intense wine, a beautiful colour – golden red – with sweet, ripe pink grapefruit and grapefruit pith notes on nose and palate and a hint of caramelisation.  Though it has good body, lively acidity makes for a lingering finish.  Very good. 

Red wines

Collection Chandra Kurt Humagne Rouge 2010 (Valais) – this large, traditional late-ripening grape is unrelated to Humagne Blanche and is identical to Cornalin, developed from the Mayolet and Petit Rouge varieties.  Though it needs good heat to ripen and plenty of canopy management, it has enjoyed a huge upswing in popularity according to Kurt.  It’s a little reduced/closed on the nose – Kurt reckons a little travel sick.  In the mouth it’s more lively with a peppery quality to its bright red berry fruits and a touch of tannic grip (fruit tannins – the wine is unoaked).  A good alternative to a cheaper Crozes Hermitage or St Joseph Syrah from the (Lower) Rhone and very food friendly.

Jean-René Germanier Cayas Syrah Reserve 2008 (Valais) – selected from various vineyards on shale slopes this concentrated Syrah is macerated for 10 days then fermented on skins for 20 days before being aged for 12 months in oak barrels, 50% new.  The oak is quite overt on nose and palate, though there’s plenty of spice too, both lifted (white pepper) and dark (clove and liquorice).  A meaty wine which needs more time for the oak to integrate.  Germainier reported that a vertical back to 95 reinforced the ageworthiness of this wine.

Jean-René Germanier Cornalin Champmarais 2006 (Valais) – if, as I understand it, the variety is the same as Kurt’s Humagne Rouge this wine could not be more different.  Cold soaked then fermented and aged 24 months in 400l oak barrels, this single (1ha) vineyard wine is deep purple, dense and oaky with sweet chocolate-edged perfumed blueberry fruit and polished tannins.  Of all the wines it’s the least individual and the most international in style, putting me in mind of a Merlot. Still, it has good underlying freshness – needs time, at least another couple of years, for the oak to integrate.