Great Grenache this Grenache Day & Tim James of Willunga 100 on McLaren Vale’s 2011 vintage & the national surplus

It’s International Grenache Day today, so a timely note on which to post my interview with Tim James of Willunga 100, McLaren Vale.

The South Australian region champions the variety, Willunga 100 make a cracking example for £9.99 and have just scooped a Silver Medal at the International Wine Challenge for new release, The Tithing Grenache.

You’ll find my tasting notes on these wines below, together with my pick of the bunch of those McLaren Vale Grenache I tasted during my July visit, including two new single vineyard releases from d’Arenberg.  Styles range from the more traditional rich, smooth and savoury to bright and lifted so-called “warm climate Pinot Noir” wines.

And returning to James’ video interview here, despite a vintage which he describes as “really, really difficult” because of the rains, Willunga 100 got some Grenache off at the right time in 2011 so all is not lost for this vulnerable, thin skinned variety.

As for the other varieties, fortunes were mixed.  Viognier (from the Adelaide Hills) didn’t get ripe before rot set in.  Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Gris came through well, while Shiraz was patchier.  In fact James admits, much to his surprise, their biodynamic vineyard “weathered really well” in 2011, outperforming conventionally farmed vineyards.

On a darker note, James gives voice to his concern that, of the overall national crush of 1.6 million tons in 2011, the quality of 300, 000 tons is  “questionable.”  If, as he fears, it finds its way into cheap export wine, he fears it will do Australia no favours.  Indeed.

Willunga 100 Grenache 2010 (McLaren Vale)

Lovely waxy rose petal layers amd perfume to this well crafted red berried and cherried Grenache, which avoids the confectionary excesses common for wines under a tenner.  A great modern Grenache – fleet of foot and floral.

Willunga 100 The Tithing Grenache 2009 (McLaren Vale)

Though it shares the turkish delight aroma and waxy layers of the junior wine, The Tithing offers more savoury depth and spice.  In the mouth it’s soft and fleshy, more plum than berry and cherry.  I’d like to see a little more length given this weighs in at around £20.

SC Pannell McLaren Vale Grenache 2009 (McLaren Vale)

With an RRP of £43.99, this is an ambitious Grenache but then it’s quite beautiful, skilfully harnessing the best of the grape (its heady, floral perfume, fleshy red fruit and seductive tannins), while retaining clarity and line.  Ripe but present tannins and a waxy petal quality make for a subtly ruffled texture.  Long, layered and utterly enchanting.

d’Arenberg The Custodian Grenache 2009 (McLaren Vale)

Aged 50:50 in giant 20, 000l foudres (some 100 years old) and older mostly French barriques, the emphasis is on the fruit and flowers. A core of ripe, sweet red fruits with hints of kirsch is well balanced by notes of turkish delight and minerals.  Very good.

d’Arenberg Derelict Vineyard Grenache 2009 (McLaren Vale)

With fruit from 80-100 year old vines from Seaview and the more elevated Blewitt Springs this can handle 100% small format oak, but there’s no new oak.  More intensely perfumed and spicy, this is an expressive, plush but well structured Grenache with ample ripe red and, very Blewitt Springs, blue berry fruit.  There’s a touch of alcoholic warmth to the finish.  A satisfying, flavoursome wine.

d’Arenberg The Blewitt Springs Grenache 2009 (McLaren Vale)

This new single vineyard Grenache tasted over lunch at the winery restaurant (highly recommended) hails from Blewitt Spring’s deep (up to 20 feet) sandy soils over clay.  It’s a deeper colour than The Beautiful View (see below) with that blueberry lift and succulence on nose and supple palate.  My notes conclude pretty with the body of Grenache but fresh too.  And most exciting of all, so expressive of its site.

d’Arenberg The Beautiful View Grenache 2009 (McLaren Vale)

Planted in 1957 on ironstone soils this is altogether leaner with firmer tannins and a seam of gravelly minerality which extends beyond the red cherry/glace cherry fruit on a long, tapering finish.  Very good and, again, great to see the impact of the soils come through so strongly.

La Curio Reserve Grenache 2009 (McLaren Vale)

Fruit for the Reserve is sourced from vines averaging 100 years old and Adam Hooper pulls no punches.  An element sees extended maceration and some stems.  The whole is aged for 12 months in French oak, 30% new. Deeply coloured with an overlay of vanillin oak on nose and palate this is a plush, seductive Grenache that goes all out to please.  Which is not to say it’s a fruit fest.  Far from it.  Dried herbs, spicy fenugreek and an attractive savoury, biscuity edge balance the ju-jube confection notes and ripe core of black cherry fruit.  There’s a wonderful succulence to the fruit which brings freshness and fluidity to the finish.  Very good.