Gold top: Quinta da Bacalhoã Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 & sister wine Vinhos Bacalhoã Quinta do Carmo Tinto 2007

I’m a staunch supporter of Portugal’s native grape varieties.  With over 450, why stray elsewhere?  But even I have to admit that Quinta da Bacalhoã has a winning way with Cabernet Sauvignon. 

First made in 1979, it’s a terrific rendition of the variety – as rectilinear as they come, with its buttoned up concentrated fruit and straight-backed tannins.  The variety, 90% of the blend (with Merlot), clearly flourishes on the red limestone slopes of Azeito in the Península de Setúbal.  

Further south, near Estremoz, Cabernet Sauvignon is a bit part player at Quinta do Carmo which, like Quinta da Bacalhoã, is owned byVinhos Bacalhoã.  Introduced by Quinta do Carmo’s ex-joint venture partner, the Lafite Rothschild group,  it brings freshness to  this Alentejo blend.

Here are my notes.  The Cabernet in particular paired beautifully with Stilton topped, garlic-studded Portabello mushrooms braised in red wine – the veggie equivalent of steak!

Quinta da Bacalhoã Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (VR Península de Setúbal)

Deep purple with a super-intense, tightly buttoned nose and palate of blackcurrant fruit and succulent blood plum with a subtle and attractive leafy edge.  It finishes long and linear, with subtly savoury hints of earth, linseed and boot polish, all of which I like very much.  Bony tannins are sveltely fleshed out and, such is the intensity of fruit, the oak (100% new French, 11 months) is readily absorbed – for structure, not seasoning.  A very delicious, elegant Cabernet.  Broachable now (with food), it’ll reward keeping and is good for a decade plus. 14.5% 

Vinhos Bacalhoã Quinta do Carmo Tinto 2007 (VR Alentejano)

This blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Sauvignon is aged for one year in French oak.  A deep plum hue it shows bright blackberry, blackcurrant and plum fruit on the nose which follow through on a juicy palate together with richer, spicy fruitcake characters, hints of warm earth and leather and a nudge of malt’n mocha oak.  Greater generosity/breadth in the mouth than the Cabernet, but good freshness and structure for Alentejo.  Flavoursome and very good. 14%