A fine pair of top tier Margaret River whites

Having recently presented a vertical of Suckfizzle Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2001, 2005, 2008 – one of Margaret River’s finest examples – it was good to catch up with the 2009 vintage.  Also to taste their new, top tier Chardonnay – Serie Luminosa.

Suckfizzle Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009 (Margaret River)

This barrel fermented and aged Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (100% new French oak) comes from a particularly low, exposed site in southernmost Augusta right near the ocean.  It has the smoky oak/citrus oil notes I associate with fine white Bordeaux (its maker Stuart Pym worked vintage at Domaine Chevalier, Bordeaux in 1995). Pym describes Suckfizzle as “a fairly extravagant expression of a Bordeaux blend;” with its sweet (ripe methoxypyrazene) grassy rasp – a lick of eucalyptus and thai basil too –  it also has southern Margaret River written all over it.  Ripe lemony fruit to the core and toasty oak does nothing to diminish its stony minerality. The finish is long and textured, with a rapier-like thrust of steely grapefruity acidity.  Plenty yet to give.  A powerful wine. 13%   

Stella Bella Serie Luminosa Chardonnay 2009 (Margaret River)

Margaret River’s gin gin clone of Chardonnay produces among the country’s most muscular, long lived examples of the variety.   The limited production Serie Luminosa range sits above Suckfizzle.  In top years Stella Bella produce a Chardonnay, a Merlot and a Cabernet Sauvignon from the best barrels.  With no loss of line or length, this rich and savoury 2009 Chardonnay is showing some lovely mature nutty notes to its perfumed dried pear and green pineapple fruit.  Lots of sourdough too.  A weighty but well structured wine, with ripe, lemony acidity.  13.5%

Incidentally, Pym has recently moved on to establish Flowstone, leaving the winemaking at Stella Bella in the capable hands of  Luke Jollife (who impressed me when I met him at Forest Hill in 2007).  Based on James Halliday’s rave Flowstone reviews (and, of course, Pym’s track record at Devil’s Lair and Stella Bella) I’m very much looking forward to tasting the wines from Pym’s new venture down the track.