Back to school – a taste intensive week plus highlights from the Dirty Dozen tasting

Back to school this week after 2 weeks on hols.  A bit like this photo, this week has passed by in a blur with the IWC and DWWA (pictured) awards dinners, plus two really excellent tastings with Liberty Wine (Premium Australia) & the Dirty Dozen.

I’ll be reporting on the Liberty Wine tasting over the next couple of weeks, complete with videos of leading winemakers’ views  on the 2011 vintage.  In the eastern states in particular, challenging wet weather conditions meant it was very much a growers’ vintage, so good to have some grassroots’ opinion on strengths and weaknesses across the country.  Also some thoughts on the grape surplus.

For now, I just want to flag the highlights of my first encounter with the so-called Dirty Dozen whose number include some of the UK’s most inspired importers (see their mission statement above).  As exciting a tasting as I’ve attended this year.  Though I largely kept focused on my areas of specialism, it was tough!!!!  Still, I made some great new discoveries, which is how it should be.

Australia

Clark Foyster have relatively recently ventured Down Under.  Their Australian portfolio (and new New Zealand listing) is small but perfectly formed.  Though it could pass muster as a rosé, Mac Forbes Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2008 showed delicious intensity, earth and spice as well as red cherries and flowers.  On song, as was the deftly sugar and acid tingled blossomy Mac Forbes Riesling RS16 2009 from Strathbogie Ranges.

Stepping outside the box, from Marlborough, New Zealand, Terravin Pinot Noir 2009 showed a touch more colour than the Mac Forbes, its sweet starwberry and red cherry fruit well balanced by textured suede-like tannins, making for an attractively dry finish.  Loved the (unoaked) Terravin Sauvignon Blanc 2010 too – textured and tangy – spot the fruit – a good thing!  More blackcurrant bud than gooseberry.

h2vin have just branched out with Australian producer Wedgetail whose wines I first encountered tasting samples for Wine Behind the Label last year (see here for a note on their Chardonnay).  Wedgetail Estate Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 showed plenty of earthy, spicy complexity to its beetroot and juicy plum layers; a fine spine of tannin too.

The Loire

Having just discovered Rocher des Violettes at this year’s Salon (see my notes here), I was delighted to have a second bite at the cherry at Aubert & Mascoli, also to check out other Loire samples from this exciting French and Italian specialist (who also sell wines retail online).  Joel Courthault Rosé des Sables 2008, a refreshing yet savoury sparkling blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, showcased the attractively earthy dimension of the two Cabernets.  Nice fine bead too.  Rocher des Violettes Mountlouis-sur-Loire Le Negrette 2009 did not disappoint – a muscular Chenin for Burgundy-lovers with great intensity of quince and lemon zest.  Classy oak doesn’t detract from its bell clear purity and minerality.  As I’ve come to expect, Damien Laureau Savennieres Le BelOuvrage 2008 showed not an ounce of fat, yet noone could accuse this powerful, mineral Chenin of being lean or mean.  Classic dried honey and autolytic, toasty, spicy notes add interest.

I’d not previously tasted Clark Foyster’s Loire Sauvignon.  Entry-level(ish) it might be but Les Demoiselles Sauvignon de Touraine 2010 – their own blend – is a smart buy.  Clean and crisp with good intensity of blackcurrant bud; nice balance too.  In the same neck of the woods, h2vin had an interesting Touraine white made from Fié Gris – new to me!  Xavier Frissant Touraine Les Rose Du Clos 2010 is delicate and floral on nose and palate with well-defined and intense grapefruit and apple peel in the mouth.  Interesting to taste Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Generations XIX 2009 again having tasted it at the Salon with Alphonse junior in February when he confided it comes in at 15.6%.  As my latest release notes from then say (see here), it’s “broad”, atypically so, but the good news is that it’s also atypically forward, so possessed of a fine, rotund girth fat with white asparagus and buttery fresh dug new potatoes, honeyed too.  A powerhouse with (just) enough acidity to hold the course.  Philippe Alliet Chinon Vielles Vignes 2008 well illustrated why for some, he’s the master of Loire Cabernet Franc.  Though the nose gave me a yikes brett moment, as it opened out in the glass, the focus was very much on dried roses and, with its floaty, super-fine tannined finish, this is as perfumed and petally as it comes with a beautiful concentration of mineral sluiced fruit.  A gorgeous wine and really quite approachable though I’m sure it’ll give lots of pleasure for many years yet.

And sticking with h2vin but straying into other parts of France, the ripe, creamy be-quinced and slatey Domaine Madeloc Collioure Tremadoc 2009 (Roussillon) and the supple leathery yet fresh and peppery Bosquets des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 were well worth the diversion!

Finally, my other Loire find was Domaine Gerard & Pierre Morin Sancerre Cuveé Ovide 2010, imported by Robersons (who also sell wines retail).  From just 1ha in Bué, it’s tight, persistent and fresh with wonderful grassy line and length.

Portugal

From Clark Foyster, Filipa Pato Bossa 2010 (Bairrada), a great value favourite showed plenty of citrus spice/peel and tang.  I enjoyed the violet scented, sappy blackberry fruit of Quinta da Lagoalva Tinto 2009 (Ribatejo) with its hint of spicy oak.  Switching flowers for Dao Sul Quinta das Tecedeiras Reserva 2008, this Douro red showed plenty of classic rock rose and nice weight and penetration of mostly black, also red fruits and liquorice spice in this lovely vintage.  Broachable now though, with firm tannins and a good lick of toast, it’ll reward keeping.

I discovered Quinta do Feital last year and Indigo Wine were showing the latest release of Marcial Dorado’s Alvarinho and Trajadura blend.  Given the warm vintage, Quinta do Feital Auratus 2010 is very fresh, tangy and bright.  But make no mistake, it’s a serious Vinho Verde with body, structure and complexity.  Top food wine.  Stepping outside the box, I love Spain’s Mencia grape, which just happens to be Portugal’s Jaen. Guimaro Joven 2010 had a wonderful intensity of spice from start to finish.  Gorgeous!

As always, Portugal specialist Raymond Reynolds’ range was strong and great to see they’re working with Quinta do Mouro (read my report of a visit and vertical tasting here).  The unoaked junior wine Quinta do Mouro Vinha do Mouro 2008 is brambly, leesy and textured with the estate’s hallmark good structure and fresness, while Quinta do Mouro Tinto 2006 aged in French and Portuguese oak is more savoury with good layer and depth to its concentrated, spicy fruit.  Also quite new to the list is the very well made round but fresh Arinto/Azal blend from Quinta do Raza Vinho Verde Branco 2010.  It’s not wildy complex but there’s plenty of clean fresh fun to be had at only 11% abv!  Similary, the floral, crisp’n dry red cherried Quinta da Giesta Touriga Rosé 2010 is very well made and won’t break the bank. Also from 2010, Danny Cameron and I reckon Luis Pato has surpassed himself with Luis Pato Maria Gomes 2010 (Bairrada), which is floral with good citrus drive and great purity/minerality.   And as you’d expect Luis Pato Vinha Pan 2005 is a great example of Baga, loaded with incense spice which brings lift and resonance to the long, fine palate.  In the Douro, Conceito Contraste Branco 2009 is long, tight and stuctured with an attractive seaweed/mineral undertow.  I prefer it to the more expensive wines where I’ve found the oak a touch intrusive.

 South Africa

I’m looking forward to tasting lots of sexy Chenin Blanc and Chenin Blanc blends at November’s Swartland revolution.  At h2vin’s table I discovered a new name  – Dewaldt Heyns.  With lashings of dried honey to its stone fruit layers Dewaldt Heyns Weathered Hands Chenin Blanc 2009 (Swartland) is oxidatively handled but shows good freshness; power and grace.  Good value too.  Indigo Wines showed Donovan Rall White 2009 (Coastal) to which I was first introduced earlier this year.  Long and lingering with spicy oak and nougat to its powerful fruit once again it’s oxidatively handled, but retains good freshness.