Bacalhoa Moscatel de Sétubal 1998: seasonal wine of the day

Port and Madeira are the headline grabbers for the Portuguese fortified wine scene, but Portugal does a fine line in fortified Moscatel (Muscat), whether from the Douro or the Sétubal Peninsula.   Today’s wine of choice hails from Sétubal.  It’s a stone’s throw from Lisbon where, if I get the chance, I visit the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, purveyors of Portugal’s finest pastéis de nata (custard tarts).  Hot off the press and available in six packs, they slip down all too easily with a glass of Moscatel de Sétubal or two or three – it’s a moreish pairing.  Waitrose offer one of my favourite examples and the 98 is particularly good – here’s my tasting note:   

Bacalhoa Moscatel de  Sétubal 1998 – a gorgeous vintage with rich, slightly singed tangerine fruit and a nutty edge; intense, long and concentrated.  A lovely wine, long and lingering.  Its orange peel and nutty notes will chime well with mince pies or Christmas cake and pud.  £18.99/bottle at Waitrose.

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