An encounter with “the Casanova of the grapes” – the truly rare Chambers Rosewood Gouais 2005 & 2004

I arrived in Portugal yesterday where I’ll be tasting latest releases from a broad range of regions for the next Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine update.

In this context (Portugal has hundreds of native varieties) it comes as no surprise to come across grapes I’ve never previously encountered. It’s not so typical in Australia, so I was thrilled to taste my first Gouais Blanc at Chambers Rosewood in Rutherglen, Victoria.

Not least because the venerable tome Wine Grapes tags it “Extremely important progenitor (with Pinot) even if almost extinct,” which explains its “Casanova of the grapes” epithet.

According to Wine Grapes’ authors (Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding & Jose Vouillamoz) DNA anlaysis has identified that it is the parent of at least 81 distinct grape varieties in Western Europe, including Chardonnay (with Pinot) and Gamay Noir.

Though Chambers’ Gouais isn’t cited in Wine Grapes, sixth generation winemaker Stephen Chambers told me when others pulled it out, they hung on to their Gouais.  An acre of exceptionally low-yielding centenarian vines produces around 250-300 cases a year.  Remarkably, despite its rarity, you can taste it at the cellar door/winery, which is as characterful as the wine itself.

Chambers Rosewood Gouais 2005 (Rutherglen)

Being a parent of Chardonnay naturally this wine is barrel fermented on lees in French oak barriques (one year old and older), which it wears very lightly. Deep but bright yellow in hue with a greenish tinge, this and its lemon butter nose put me in mind of Hunter Semillon.  In the mouth it shows surprisingly bright, animated (for its age), ripe, pithy citrus fruit – broader, more muscular, sinewy even, than you’d find in the Hunter.  Picked later than the 2004 (see below) to allow the flavours to concentrate after a spell of rain in late January/ early February it’s fleshier and riper (more kumquat than lemon) through the mid-palate, but it has the singular punchy focus of the 04 – I’m assuming a varietal characteristic, at least for these very aged vines here in Rutherglen.

Chambers Rosewood Gouais 2004 (Rutherglen)

Almost austere compared with the 2005 owing to its earlier harvest date, this reminds me more of an old vine (dry) Loire Chenin from Anjou.  Terrific attack – really spikey, steely grapefruit, with floral, camomile lift to the finish.  An attractive garnish!  A fascinating wine with great palate presence and length.