A couple of vibrant Viogniers from Australia

Unless you’re Rip Van Winkle it won’t have escaped your attention that Australian Chardonnay is enjoying a renaissance. These days, Aussie Chardys are lithe, racy even and so, it would seem, is a new generation of Viogniers. At least judging by two particularly lissome examples (pictured) which recently came my way:

Yangarra Estate Vineyard Viognier 2010 (McLaren Vale)

Yangarra Estate is in the cooler northeastern foothills of the Blewitt Springs district of McLaren Vale. It benefits both from daytime maritime breezes off the Gulf of St Vincent and, at night, cool air, which tumbles down from the South Mount Lofty Ranges. This wine was aged for 12 months in older French oak barrels and lees stirred monthly. Pale straw with green glints, the nose is perfumed and fresh with sweet honeysuckle and a hint of green almond, which notes follow through on a palate simultaneously juicy (with greengage) and subtly creamy, with ripe apricot. Sensual without losing line or length, it’s a superbly balanced, intense but understated lively Viognier, its sweetness floral and delicate rather than fruit driven. Lovely. 13.5%

Turners Crossing Viognier 2010 (Bendigo)

Turners Crossing Viognier was similarly fermented and aged in old French oak barriques, though just for 4 months. It is finely honed, very pure and focused, with not an ounce of fat to its racy palate. Lemon sherbert, candied citrus, pretty perfumed mandarin and greengage make for a mouthwatering Viognier, with a tight citric backbone. The oak is not even barely there, though an element of wild yeast ferment lends a savoury sourdough twang. A Viognier for ascetics! 14%