Bucking & following the trend: Spanish steps for Mornington Peninsula’s Crittenden Wines

I’d had it it mind to have lunch at Movida at the weekend, one of Melbourne’s hot tapas bars.  However, it has to be said that, for once, the spirit was unwilling – only because the flesh is all too abundant after two weeks of travelling, eating out and no exercise to speak of!  It’s gonna be boot camp when I get back home in a week.

The Spanish vibe hasn’t just affected restaurants, it’s also had an impact on wine producers. Tempranillo is pretty ubiquitous in Australia now since, as Yalumba’s Louisa Rose pointed out to me last year, “if it had been planted in the early vineyards where Shiraz is planted, it could have been 25% of the Australian crush today because of its versatility across climates.” 

On Friday, however, I came across a much more esoteric homage to Spain – Australia’s first Txakoli style white, complete with sardine tin influenced label (pictured).  Very good it is too.

Made by father and son team Gary and Rollo Crittenden of Crittenden Wines, as you’d expect from the Mornington Peninsula-based duo, their top wines are made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  However,  given that Crittenden senior co-authored a book about where best to plant Italian and Spanish varieties in Australia, how could he resist putting his theories into practice?  Casting the net wider, the so-called alternative grape vareties are sourced from north of the Peninsula, especially the King Valley.

Here are my notes on Crittenden’s Los Hermanos Saludo al Txakoli 2011 plus another two wines from their Spanish themed Los Hermanos range (they also make a Tempranillo):

Crittenden Estate Los Hermanos Saludo al Txakoli 2011 (King Valley)

Basque grape varieties Hondarrabi  Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza have not yet made it to Australia, but Izkiriota Ttipia (a.k.a. Petit Manseng) has.  This is the maiden vintage and Rollo accurately describes it as “a fun wine, very tactile, not to ponder.”  Though we taste from wine glasses, in Spain you’d drink it from a tumbler and the wine would be poured from a height to accentuate it’s frisky spritz.  Nonetheless, it shows attractive bite and tang with its green olive, almond and brine notes – come to think of it,  sounds like tapas in a glass!  An engaging touch of spritz makes for a thirst quenching palate with a crisp bright finish.  Less, how shall we say, bracingly raw than the Txakoli wines I tasted on holiday in Bilboa some years back (!), but it absolutely captures the light, fresh ‘n frisky style to a tee.  11.5% abv

Crittenden Estate Los Hermanos Tributo 2010 (King Valley/Mornington Peninsula)

The Spanish theme goes awry here thanks to the mix up between Albarino and Savagnin cuttings (which affected the industry as a whole).  Pale with green glints,  it’s a textured white with apple blossom notes to its nutty palate and a  hint of tinned peach to the finish.  With its gentle but persistent thread of acidiy, it’s also very food friendly.  13% abv

Crittenden Estate Los Hermanos Homenaje 2010 (Port Phillip)

This mid-weight blend of 41% Tempranillo, 39% Mataro and 20% Garnacha has a spicy edge and grunt of tannin to its juicy blackberry fruit.  Aged in older oak barrels the fruit – flesh and tannin – does the talking.  It’s not especially complex but it’s refreshingly digestible, whether with food or on its own.