Winter warmers at Penfolds Magill Estate – fine fortifieds

I touched down in Adelaide yesterday morning and, in the afternoon, visited Penfolds’ HQ at the historic Magill Estate (pictured). 

Though I’d visited in 2004, always great to see vineyards at a different time of year (the 5.2ha Magill vineyard pictured).

And I’m enjoying making the connections between the Douro and Australia, both of which have their roots in the production of fortified wines, as you can see (above) from the brandy still and below from the excise office (bang next door to the brandy still!)

Also the (rather deep) “lagares” (below) which were installed in 1900 when fortified wines were all the rage, indeed the mainstay for another 50 or so years of Australia’s wine story.

Though Penfolds traces its history of making fortified wines right back to its birth in the mid-19th century, today the focus is squarely on wood-aged tawny styles which are aged in small, old oak casks and blended (via modified solera).  These days they are made at Penfolds’ Kalimna Tawny Cellars in the Barossa Valley.    

Thoroughly Australian, they comprise Shiraz, Mataro/Mourvèdre with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache; they’re sweeter and more corpulent than their Portuguese equivalents (age-dated tawny Ports). 

Penfolds Great Grandfather and Grandfather carry the ‘Rare’ designation, meaning their average age is in excess of fifteen years, though the former averages 35-40 years. With the Grand designation, Bluestone has an average age greater than ten years.

Here are my notes on the top fortified wines which have only just been released in the UK and are sold by Slurp.

Penfolds Bluestone Grand Tawny – a marzipan nose leads onto a rich, plump sweet and spicy fruitcake palate well balanced by savoury liquorice and good freshness, which brings length and layer.   Deliciously moreish.  RRP £21 

Penfolds Grandfather Rare Tawny – a rich molasses/black treacle edge to the nose doesn’t prepare you for the lifted spice box explosion on the palate.  High toned with tons of spicy liquorice and aniseed, it’s long, intense and lively.  Very good.  RRP £84

Penfolds Great Grandfather Rare Tawny – a wonderful intensity of dried fruits, salt caramel and nuts/nougat results in a super smooth  – think Barry White  – delivery, the spirit seamlessly integrated.  A resonating,  mellow, cello finish has a penetrating nutty spine which keeps the sweeter salt caramel and nougat elements in check.  Terrific and, I’m told and can believe, a fine match wth salted caramel and pear.  It also paired beautifully with gorgonzola piccante and biscotti at Chianti Classico (highly recommended, especially the Cacciucco alla Livornese), where I dined last night.   RRP £170.

Click here for my notes on the latest luxury and icon releases which I tasted with Chief Winemaker Peter Gago in London last week.