Hardys Rare Fortifieds, including the world’s oldest Sauvignon Blanc?

If memory serves me correctly, Hardys served a delicious, very moreish oloroso style Apero as an aperitif at the 160th anniversary tasting in London back in 2013.  On the occasion of Eileen Hardy Chardonnay’s 30th anniversary vertical, we were served the ‘new’ Rare Fortifieds after lunch.

Of course historic Australian companies might be expected to have impressively aged fortified stocks.  The category dominated the industry for so long.  Even so, I was surprised to encounter a Liqueur Sauvignon Blanc which, said Chief White Winemaker Tom Newton, most probably features the world’s oldest Sauvignon Blanc – 140 year old wine from McLaren Vale vines.

Although these precious old reserves have been blended with significantly younger wines, nonetheless they are uber-concentrated wines.  Produced in miniscule quantities, like rare Madeira, they are very much supping wines.  Especially given their sweetness relative to Portuguese fortifieds.

Not for no reason have these handsomely packaged fortifieds been launched in Australian duty-free stores.  They are the ideal gift for the sweet-toothed wine lover who thought they’d tried everything.

Hardys Rare Liqueur Sauvignon Blanc Blend No. A01 (McLaren Vale)

As I know from the tasting bench at Taylor’s and Ramos Pinto, a dash of century plus year old Tawny Port goes a very long way in a non-vintage blend. Despite the 140 year old component, the average age of this 346 bottle blend is 17 years.  I can’t say that the variety stood out in the flavour profile of this smooth, nutty, sweet wine with its caramelised/a touch scorched dried fruit. Nor would I expect it to after such long barrel ageing.  To my mind, it did come across in the relative lightness (of body, not intensity) of this fortified Sauvignon.   Hardys reckon it is the world’s one and only Liqueur Sauvignon Blanc. I did wonder if it is a meaningful addition to the genre.  Still, you cannot deny it is intriguing to taste the world’s oldest Sauvignon Blanc.  It’s a curio, but a very well made one.  Like the Tawny and Muscat, the balance (including the spirit integration) is lovely, with not a hair out of place.  Picking up on that spirit point, Bill Hardy observed how important it was that “we always had control of our spirit” ( whereas in the past, Port producers had to use government issue spirit). 18% abv (RRP AUS$100).

Hardys Rare Tawny Blend No. A01 (McLaren Vale, Riverland, Barossa)

The average age of the components of this 864 bottle blend is 25 years.  It is plump but long too, crammed with Christmas cake dried fruits, spice and marzipan flavours, the latter very pronounced on a smooth, nutty, rancio finish.  Concentrated but balanced; a feast in a glass.  Instead of Christmas cake?  20% abv (RRP AUS$100).

Hardys Rare Muscat Blend No. A01 (Rutherglen, Riverland)

The average age of the components of this 786 bottle blend is 25 years.  This was probably my favourite of the four.  I liked the balancing throb of cardamom spice, ristretto and nutty, grilled hazelnut edge to its plump, very luscious, sweet raisin fruit.  Dark and brooding, long and deep.  18%  (RRP AUS $100).

Hardys Rare Show Sweet White Blend No. A01 (Rutherglen, Riverland)

Just 150 bottles were produced of this wine.  It mostly features Muscadelle; the average age of the blend components is 20 years.  My word, this is crazy, off-the-scale sweet and luscious.  If the sugar tax applied, the UK’s deficit could be reduced in no time!  A reduction of raisins.   So very intense, it should be partaken only in homeopathically charged small doses.   And with a health warning.  17.5% (RRP AUS $250).