September Wines of the Month: Australian Vermouth & Burgundy inspired reds

Chris Tyrrell with Tyrrell’s large format 2,500/2600 litre foudres -perfect for classic Hunter medium-bodied Shiraz

Following my three weeks of travels in Australia it has been damn near impossible to single out my two Wines of the Month.  There is plenty of inspirational winemaking going on down under – just don’t look to the supermarkets over here to showcase it.   It’s not all happening in cool climes either. While my basket range red might be dubbed a basket case red (it’s the vermouth inspired one), the Hunter Valley Shiraz harkens back to a tradition of Hunter Burgundy – a beautifully realised one at that.

Tyrrell’s 4 Acres Shiraz 2014 (Hunter Valley)

Tyrrell’s larged it at the recent Hunter Valley Wine Show, bagging a shedload of Gold Medals and Trophies including the Iain Riggs Wine of Provenance award for Tyrrell’s Vineyards Johnno’s Shiraz 2004, 2009, 2013.  But large is the last thing that springs to mind when you taste this Shiraz from the oldest vineyard on the Tyrrell’s property (4 Acres’ Shiraz was planted in 1879).  In such an acclaimed vintage others might have got carried away with oak and extraction, but 4 Acres is as elegant and tip-toey as Shiraz comes.  In fact it’s positively pretty with a wonderfully translucent, gossamer-light quality to its sweet, silky red currant, cherry and berry fruits and an ever so gentle riff of stems (whole bunch).   Chamois tannins and subtle fruit not oak derived spice notes speak of old vine credentials which have been allowed to shine – 4 Acres is aged in large format oak like these 2,500/2600 litre foudres pictured with Chris Tyrrell.    It has to be among my favourite Shiraz/Syrah from anywhere.   Click here for my very first review of 4 Acres – the 2006 and 2007 vintages – (plus a photo of the vineyard).  13.5%

Ochota Barrels botanicals of the basket range 2015 (Australia)

Ochota Barrels’ ”vermouth inspired” red wine still has me break out in a wide grin. “Rosemary,” I exclaimed with surprise and confusion on first sniff.  And it got more confusing as said burst of rosemary was succeeded by a torrent of sage, Barola Chinato medicinal notes, spicier aniseed and menthol tiger balm hints, the whole transported by a vibrant swell of fresh red fruits.  All became considerably less confusing when Amber Ochoto explained that this thoroughly idiosyncratic wine comprises “a continuous ferment of all our wines, added a bucket at a time” and infused via a “tea bag” of 17 botanicals hand-picked from around and about.  In fact it made perfect sense when you consider the cult status of Negroni in Australia, especially among winemakers. A crash of flavours but by no means a car crash, it’s a crazy but delicious concotion. Take that mixologists! 12.5%