Fine Western Australian wine deals at Marks & Spencers

Tony Davis & Redmond Seeny a.k.a. Australia’s Bodie & Doyle; shame about the thongs…

Following my recent visit to Western Australia I was excited to hear that dynamic duo Snake & Herring (Bodie & Doyle in a former life) have a couple of listings in Marks & Spencer who just so happen to have a buy two save 25% deal on wine and Champagne cases right now.  My full report on Snake & Herring’s wines will follow but, for now, here’s my take on the two at M&S together with my note on another Western Australian wine – a Grenache from McHenry Hohnen which is exclusive to M&S.

Snake & Herring High & Dry Riesling 2013 (Porongurup, Great Southern)

From the eastern edge of Porongurup, perhaps the sexiest sub-region in Great Southern now, especially for Riesling.  Its granite soils and elevation produce particularly fine, focused and mineral wines with great acid retention/freshness.  Said elevation accounts for the “High.”  As for the “Dry,” that’s about the rain shadow on the north facing slopes that allows for later ripening and results in great flavour intensity. Sourced from a vineyard with 20 year old Riesling vines this is a bone dry, floral, mineral, talcy hand-picked Riesling with lingering ripe citrus and juicy greengage fruit.   Good line and length if a little more relaxed than the uber-taut 2012.   12.5%  £95.94/case of 6 (£15.99/bottle); 25% off when you buy 2 cases.

Snake & Herring Calypso Merlot & Cabernet Franc 2011 (Margaret River)

Australian winemakers are the first to admit that Merlot is a tricky customer down under but, given winemaker Tony Davis’ description of this wine as a “Right Bank homage,” you can rest easy.  This is a very accomplished Margaret River blend of  52% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, the Merlot from a single vineyard, the Cabernets from a couple of sites (all three in Wilyabrup which is particularly renowned for the quality of its red wines).  It reveals juicy yet creamy black berry and currant fruit with lovely inky, floral lift and gently ruffled, powdery tannins.  The oak is worn lightly indeed, if anything, the tannins are of the drier (I’m talking flavour not astringent mouthfeel) fruit tannin variety which lends freshness and structure – no bad thing when it comes to Merlot.  All in all, this is a very nicely balanced wine.  Classy stuff for the price.  14% £120/case of 6 (£20/bottle); 25% off when you buy 2 cases.

McHenry Hohnen Burnside Vineyard Grenache 2013 (Margaret River)

From his days at pioneering Margaret River winery Cape Mentelle David Hohnen has, in varietal terms, thought outside the box.  From the early days he played around with Shiraz and Zinfandel and the headliner for this wine, Grenache was planted in his family’s Burnside vineyard 30 years ago.  I say headliner because this wine includes dashes of Shiraz (8.2%) and Zinfandel (3.1%) which, together with Margaret River’s temperate climate make for a drier, fresher style of Australian Grenache with distinctive spice and juicy blackberry nuances to its creamier red berry, cherry and pomegranate fruit. I like the gently grippy (raspberry seed) fruit tannins and subtle violet lift too.   A great summer through autumn red which wears its 14.5% very well, that is to say deceptively!  £89.94/case of 6 (£14.99/bottle); 25% off when you buy 2 cases.