First taste Ideal Drinks: an ambitious new Portuguese player

Ideal Drinks’ prodigious portfolio produced a number of my most exciting new Portuguese discoveries of last year.  Quite an achievement for a business which was only established in 2010.

But then the man behind the brand is Carlos Dias.  The Swiss watch designer, a renowned businessman, evidently brings his experience marketing luxury goods (not to mention deep pockets) to Ideal Drinks’ no-expense-spared range.

CEO & Chief Winemaker Carlos Lucas with one of his favourite toys -an XPLus 40 Inertys nitrogen injection “press” – an oxygen free environment with juice extraction by vacuum, not pressure

Plus his run like clockwork team includes ex-Dão Sul man Carlos Lucas (CEO and Chief Winemaker) and Bordeaux consultant Pascal Chatonnet, which undoubtedly accounts for the swift success of Principal Tinto Grande Reserva 2009.  On a par with Petrus with a score of 98.1, it graced the December edition of Spirito diVino’s Top 10 list of the world’s best 100 reds (click here for details).

More toys – Quinta da Pedra’s distillery produces upmteen styles of aguardente

Sadly I cannot draw comparisons with the Petrus (because I haven’t tasted it), however I reckon the Principal can hold its head high alongside the 30 renowned international Cabernets I tasted at the Wolf Blass Master Blend Classification tasting (which included four 2009 Bordeaux first growths).

While it might be argued that a Bordeaux blend is an obvious candidate for an ambitious portfolio with designs on the export market (nothing wrong with that), my other picks of Ideal Drink’s portfolio are its Vinho Verdes and Bairrada Pinot Noir rosés (still and sparkling).  With seven quintas in Bairrada, Vinho Verde and the Dão, its range certainly offers strength in diversity.

Here are my highlights, based on two visits, one to Vinho Verde, the other to Bairrada.

Quinta da Pedra Senhoria Alvarinho 2010 (Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde)

Ideal Drinks owns three quintas in Vinho Verde, Quinta da Pedra, Quinta de Milagres and Paço de Palmeira.  The first wines (2009 vintage) were made by Vinho Verde guru Anselmo Mendes at his cellar. Since being acquired by Dias in 2009 from Super Bock (the beer producer, who apparently used the fruit for wines sold “on draft”!), this large, historic estate has undergone something of a makeover.  But it’s as nothing compared to the wines, which are held back for a year or two in bottle prior to release.  Senhoria, the “junior” cuvee, is as powerful an Alvarinho has I’ve encountered – really muscular, with plenty of mouthfeel.  Which is not to say it lacks nuance.  The 2010 reveals hints of honey, orange blossom and minerals to its generous girth of waxed apricot and tropical fruit.  An impressively hewn, gastronomic wine which, surprisingly, weighs in at only 12.5% abv.  One can only marvel at how the potential of Pedra’s 43ha of Alvarinho were previously squandered…

Quinta da Pedra Senhoria Alvarinho 2011 (Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde)

Paler and fresher than the 2010, with more floral, mineral and citrus (grapefruit and spicy kumquat) accents.  Good penetration and intensity through the mid-palate, though it doesn’t have the concentration and length – the sheer heft – of the 2010. 12.5%

Quinta da Pedra Alvarinho 2010 (Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde)

There’s something of a dichotomy about Ideal Drink’s labelling/packaging.  This, the top tier wine, is bling-bling all the way, with its heavyweight ribbed bottle and wooden box. With, say Ideal Drinks, a 15 year drinking window, its powerful fruit is built up and buttressed by toasty oak, lees ageing and stirring.  The result is a complex, concentrated, multi-facted wine, whose swagger of creamy apricot and quince fruit is cut with intense and piquant pithy orange peel and headier orange oil/bergamot.  Minerals too.  It’s Alvarinho, but not as we know it! Arguably over the top, bombastic even, but it remains well-focused.  I liked it.  Could I drink a bottle (or even half a bottle)?   I didn’t get the chance to try, but I’ll let you know if and when I do! 13% abv

Quinta da Pedra Alvarinho 2011 (Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde)

As with the Senhoria, the 2011 vintage is paler, fresher and brighter – all in all a good deal subtler than the 2010. So while a shorter (eight year) drinking window is forecast, I could very happily drink a bottle of this silkily textured (less cut with a knife) Alvarinho.  It shows classic honeysuckle and stone fruits, especially yellow peach with spice and mineral notes.  The finish is lingering and elegant. Very good.  13%

Paço de Palmeria Royal Palmeira Loureiro 2009 (Vinho Verde)

Straw with a hint of green and appetising, slightly exotic lime zest on the nose.  In the mouth, I’m varietally challenged by its atypical slippery and savoury leesy palate/mouthfeel and complex toast and kerosene notes (á la aged Aussie Semillon or Riesling).  Then seduced by the citrus lime zesty drive and mineral inflected line and length of the finish. A hint of eucalyptus too, which lends a certain gout de terroir.  If you like mature Hunter Semillon (like me), you’ll love this. 12.5% abv

Paço de Palmeria Royal Palmeira Loureiro 2010 (Vinho Verde)

A deeper colour, with a more developed vegetal aroma and flavour profile, with savoury autolytic notes, salted limes, lanolin and a hint of eucalypt. It’s a little phenolic on the finish, with slightly angular snappy acidity which detracts a little from the purity and balance.  But plenty of interest here.

Paço de Palmeira Royal Palmeira Eminencia Loureiro 2010 (Vinho Verde)

A glitzy Loureiro, which undergoes extended barrel ferment and batonnage.  Not your usual Vinho Verde then but this, the flagship wine, is wholly in keeping with Ideal Wines’ ambitious portfolio.  From the estate’s 40 year old vineyards in Loureiro-focused Lima, its concentration and structure belie its pale hue.  It’s most definitely pale and interesting!  A leesily creamy, deliciously textured palate reveals long and ever so lingering layers of minerals, lime cordial and lime blossom, powder puff and delicately judged supporting sweet, smoky oak.  It won’t appeal to purists but, without question, it’s the most powerful, intense and complex Loureiro I’ve encountered.  And thoroughly beguiling with it.  One of my top 12 white wines of the year (click here to see my notes on the others).

Principal Reserva Branco 2010 (Bairrada)

The principal Bairrada estate is Colinas de São Lourenço which, with the benefit of Mexican head-grafters, was completely remodelled and replanted with several national and international grape varieties – Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Arinto. This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay with a dash of Arinto put me in mind of Margaret River’s oaked Sauvignon/Semillon Bordeaux blends.  The nose is a touch smoky with vanillin oak which follows through on a flinty, fresh, limey, energetic palate.  Though the finish is very crisp and precise, the mid-palate has an attractive leesy textural quality and complexity.  Very good.  13%

Principal Rosé Tête de Cuvée 2010 (Bairrada)

Made in a Coquard Champagne press from the first (whole bunch) pressing (600l) of Pinot Noir destined for the sparkling wine, which is then gravity run into small tanks.  this is a super-pale pinky-beige, subtle, saline and savoury rosé. Creamy, but fresh and gently fruity (rhubarb/strawberry), long and persistent.  A serious gastronomic rosé –quite possibly the best I’ve tasted from Portugal. 12.5%

Colinas Espumante Brut Rosé 2009 (Bairrada)

A very impressive salmon-coloured 100% Pinot Noir fizz which was aged for three years on the lees.  It has great verve and tension.  Just a hint of greenness rachets up the overall impression of tightness and dryness.  A long, focused, dry finish has a very persistent fine bead.  Lovely structure. 12.5%

Colinas Red Reserva 2008 (Bairrada)

This deep plum, perfumed blend of Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is great value for money (Colinas is a rung below the Principal label).  The Touriga’s violet perfume lends a Portugese twist to this Bordeaux blend which has fleshy chocolate-edged plum fruit, a touch of smoke and very fine, elegant tannins. 14%

Principal Grande Reserva Red 2008 (Bairrada)

The same blend but the pick of the fruit is given the Rolls Royce treatment.  It’s intensely perfumed, with lifted floral notes and a hint of leafiness. A very silky, plummy palate with a touch of dark chocolate is bright-fruited yet restrained and dry in profile, with an impressive charge of fine tannins and lovely, persistent acidity.  Very long, intense and elegant.  Beautifully crafted.  14%

Principal Grande Reserva Red 2009 (Bairrada)

Selection, selection, selection for the top cuvee

Petrus’ peer is a little riper than the 2008, which makes for an inkier wine with a seductively silky, perfumed (floral) palate of ripe plum, red and black berry and cherry fruit. With seamless (yet abundant) tannins and classy oak it’s a long, layered, involving wine with a reassuringly dry dark chocolate and leafy edge to the finish.  A suitably high note on which to conclude.  14.5%