A catch up with Wolf Blass’ upmarket Gold, Grey, Platinum and Black labels

I head off to Australia next week where, among other things, I’ll be contributing to a panel discussion at Savour Australia, the nation’s first and biggest (global) wine forum.  Our topic for discussion?  “The UK – Re-booting a mature market.”

We’ll be debating the industry’s so-called “success shadow” – how the growth of Australia’s heavily discounted big brands diminished its image as a premium producer.  Timely then to be tasting four premium/super-premium wines from Wolf Blass last week with my niece and her partner.  His reaction to their Gold, Grey, Platinum and Black Labels (the latter the 35th vintage of this iconic Cabernet/Shiraz blend)? “Ooh, so they’re moving into premium wines now?” 

Of course, he’s much more familiar with the ubiquitous yellow label, which can be found in supermarkets, corner shops and garage forecourt shops near you (or at least his local “deli” garage shop in Cornwall).  Anyway, there we have it, confirmation of the success shadow with an interested if not affluent wine consumer.

As for the wines, here are my notes:

Wolf Blass Gold Label Riesling 2010 (Eden Valley/Clare Valley)

Lime blossom to the nose, incipient honey. In the mouth it shows an excellent concentration of juicy, ripe lime fruit and a stony minerality. Lovely 2010 abundance with balance, and focus. Good length too. 12% £14.95 at Slurp

Wolf Blass Grey Label Shiraz 2010 (McLaren Vale)

Like the Gold Label Riesling, 2010’s exuberance with balance makes for a delicious wine.  Deep purple and opaque with little difference between rim and core it’s textbook McLaren Vale with its savoury (black olive, dried sage) notes and generous mid-palate of cassis and blackcurrant.  A powerful charge of ripe but present tannins anchor the palate-staining flavours and, together with its savouriness, make for a perceptibly “drier”-seeming wine.  With seamlessly integrated oak, it finishes long, concentrated and balanced. 15% £28.99 at Corking Wines 

Wolf Blass Black Label 2007 (Langhorne Creek & McLaren Vale)

Versus the Platinum Label Shiraz’s vertiginously steep, slippery and seductive slope of pure Shirazness (akin to diving into a deep pool of fruit), this rugged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Malbec boasts contrasting layers – steps not slope – of succulent black cherry and viscous raisin, seductive chocolate and piquant salt, warm earth and cool mint.  Tannins, initially ruffled, build in the mouth, as does the black forest gateau fruit. Well-framed by big, butch tannins, the 2007 BLack Label has plenty of grunt and backbone, character too.  A perfect steak wine with a long life ahead.  15% £63.50 at Nickolls & Perks (2008 vintage)

Wolf Blass Platinum Label Shiraz 2007 (Barossa)

A very deep colour, initially dense and dark on the nose, with cassis and hints of engine oil/ tar and eucalyptus, all of which follow through on a super-concentrated, velvety palate with lashings of  mocha oak and a warm glow of alcohol (present but not intrusive).  I like the delicious chocolatey, warm, loamy, earthy note behind the fruit.    On day two, it’s looking purer and brighter fruited (impressive for 2007) if still opulent, with deep reserves of raspberry, mulberry and black berry and currant fruit ever so smoothly delivered over a long wheel base chassis of fine grained tannins. Undeniably impressive, though I wonder if drinking rather than tasting it might be a tad schmaltzy? I preferred the Black Label’s texture and layer.  15.5%  £71.99  at Corking Wines

Watch this space for more on Wolf Blass. I’ll be attending a tasting with its Chief Winemaker Chris Hatcher in Adelaide on 16 September when he and fellow Treasury Wine Estates’ winemakers will explore the foundations, interpretations and icons of Australian wine. Should be fun!