A visit with Duorum, plus a great fish dish for Douro reds: Arroz com Polvo

I knew that the Douro was having unseasonal weather, but it really sank in last week when, each morning, I awoke to sunny blue skies and, in the heat of the day, temperatures hit the mid-twenties (10-15 degrees centigrade is more typical).

Nights, of course, are another matter in this mountainous region. Distinctly chilly. It’s this diurnal temperature variation which accounts for the freshness of wines sourced from elevated vineyards.

In the Douro Superior, José Maria Soares Franco of Duorum (pictured left with Roque Cunha Ferreira) reckons that, when you can combine this easternmost Douro sub-region’s drier, warmer climate with elevation, it’s unbeatable for consistency of quality and freshness. In his opinion, the Cima Corgo has more vintage variation and, if vines are planted close to the river (the best place for Port), the wines can be porty too.

It’s why he and business partner João Portugal Ramos pounced on Quinta da Castela Melhor (pictured below), which rises to 485m. Soares Franco says back in 2006, it was the only place on the shadier, north-facing left bank of the Douro between the river Coa and Spanish border yet to be planted.

In the last decade or so, Quinta do Crasto, Quinta do Vallado, Rozes and Jean Charles Cazes have all developed steeply terraced vineyards on this coveted schist-strewn stretch along the Douro, which is a ready source of water for irrigation.

It’s a sizeable investment – 160ha, acquired in 68 parcels, of which 40ha are currently under vine. However, Soares Franco who, for 27 years made Barca Velha, latterly next door at Ferreira’s Quinta da Leda, was convinced of the site’s potential from the off. And compared with when he started out working in the Douro Superior in 1979 aged 25, these days the commute from Oporto is much shorter. In the old days, it took seven and a half hours; these days it’s only two and a half!

The new plantings range from one to four years old. The new vineyard first contributed to the wines in 2011 and, to date, the Duorum range is principally made from older vine fruit from leased vineyards in the Douro Superior (between 400-500m) and 20 parcels in the Cima Corgo, which is where the wines are made in a rented winery.

At Castelo Melhor, always with a view to elegance, Touriga Franca (which retains freshness well) is planted closest to the river (which is warmer), then Sousao (which also holds its freshness well) midslope, with Touriga Nacional at the (cooler) top, also smatterings of Alicante Bouschet and Touriga Francisca. For whites Viosinho, Verdelho, Codega, Rabigato and Arinto.

You’ll find my notes on the wines below but first, a quick word about lunch. Finding great non-meat dishes to pair with red wines isn’t the easiest of sports, but here’s a new one on me that worked brilliantly – Arroz com Polvo. I’m told that the octopus had first been sauted in red wine and, cooked separately from the rice, it was wonderfully tender.  A delicious lunch, in a very fine setting, high above the Douro with a welcome gentle breeze and much needed shade.

Tons de Duorum White 2011

This blend of Verdelho, Viosinho and Arinto is a modern, fruity white with ripe citrus, melon and guava with a hint of perfumed bath salts. Very clean and bright with a delicate chalky texture. Good. 13%

Tons de Duorum Red 2009

Soft and plummy with juicy, spicy blackberry fruit and an undertow of minerality. Very good. 13.5%

Tons de Duorum Red 2010

A little reduced with an attractive peppery note to nose and palate. The palate is round and ripe, with raspberries and fruits of the forest. An edge of tannin lends freshness and structure. Very well made.

Duorum Colheita Red 2010

The Colheita spends around 12 months in oak, 30% new. It’s deeper in colour and more concentrated on the palate with vanillin oak to its ripe, round plum, black berry and currant fruit. Tannins are ripe but present. Good. 13.5%

Duorum Colheita Red 2009

More expressive on nose and palate, the 09 shows violets and esteva. Very juicy, its blackberry fruit artfully teased out with a mineral wash of acidity which lends structure and freshness. Tannins are fine and well integrated. Very good. 13.5%

Duorum Colheita Reserva Vinhas Velhas 2008

This old vine selection is aged for 18 months in oak, 70% new. It’s well focused, still quite tight, spicy and dark fruited (very 2008). In the mouth it shows succulent black cherry with a touch of leafy blackcurrant (an attractively fresh, lifted note) and minerals. Very good. 14%

Duorum Colheita Reserva Vinhas Velhas 2009

Fleshier with sappy plum, vanillin and toast, the 09 is very youthful; needs time to open up.

You can find out more about Duorum on UK importer Oakley Wines’ website here. Stockists who include The Wine Society, The Real Wine Company and Portovino.