Pereira d’Oliveira Madeira – Berry Brothers & Rudd’s “new range,” dating back to 1875

bbr oct 13 013

This fifth generation Madeira producer has an enviable back-catalogue of aged wines.  Here are my notes on Berry Bros “new range” (prices are for full, 75cl bottles).

Pereira d’Oliveira Madeira Malvazia Colheita 1992

A rich, velvety smooth Malvazia with sweet caramel, chocolate orange and malted chocolate notes.  Well judged balancing acidity teases out the finish and keeps the sweetness in check.  £60.

Pereira d’Oliveira Madeira Boal 1983

Dusty.  Not very clean.  £79

Pereira d’Oliveira Madeira Terrantez 1977

bbr oct 13 015

I’m really pleased that this rare grape is being replanted on the island (click here for details).  Its signature cafe crème tobacco notes lend a savoury edge – a dryness and tickle of tannin – to its bruised/baked apple palate.  Combined with its racy acidity, this incisive Madeira has great nervosity and length.  £98

Pereira d’Oliveira Madeira Verdelho 1973

This bottle seemed heavy and quite flat – rather shown up by its older, much more vivacious  sibling (see below).  £95

Pereira d’Oliveira Madeira Verdelho 1912

bbr oct 13 010

Everything I love about Verdelho, this has wonderfully tangy tropical and spicy chutney fruit cut with a lively, savoury edge of salted limes.  Just a touch of dustiness to the finish but it’s so vibrant and animated going through – from attack to very long finish – one hardly notices.  £342

Pereira d’Oliveira Madeira Boal 1908

A ruddy, youthful tawny hue, but in the mouth, it has a glancing, sulphurous quality; lacks fruit/depth.  £342

Pereira d’Oliveira Madeira Malvazia 1907

bbr oct 13 014

A year older but what a difference from the Boal.  This Malvazia is a beauty with more than a touch of the Raj to its fleshy sweet and sour tamarind and jaggery-edged, spicy dried fruits.  Lovely richness delivered in Madeira’s signature layered but pacy style.  Absolutely delicious.  £370

Pereira d’Oliveira Madeira Sercial 1875

bbr oct 13 013

A beautiful amber hue with saffron and olive notes at the rim.  The nose is quite glorious – really takes hold of your senses.  Though dry, the palate is peppered with shards of jaggery, splinters of sweet caramel and subtly sweet and spicy chutney.  The smoky guava-edged finish is charged with a sulphurous, volcanic note.  A journey in a glass.  Edgy, but in a good way.  £702

Pereira d’Oliveira Madeira Malvazia 1875

bbr oct 13 012As you’d expect, a deeper hue – dark amber, with an olive rim.  And again, as you’d expect, much more sucrosity/tatin-like singed caramelisation here, which lends lovely richness to a palate still very present, weighty even with saffron and cassia bark spiced (dried) chutney fruit.  A touch of wood volatility brings a delicious tangy timbre to the whole.  I suspect a touch of dustiness to the finish might well blow off with time in glass but in any event it scarcely detracts from this deeply impressive, venerable wine.  £689

(Visited 601 times, 1 visits today)


There are no comments

Add yours