Henriques & Henriques 20 Years Old Terrantez & Malvasia Madeira: seasonal wines of the day
These two new releases from Henriques & Henriques plough a relatively new furrow, more aged age dated Madeiras, in this case, a 20 Year Old Malvasia and Terrantez (pictured). The Terrantez is particularly exciting!
Spending longer time in cask than the more traditional 5, 10 and 15 Year Old Madeiras, these 20 Year Old wines are that bit more concentrated and complex. I’m going to enjoy eke-ing them out over the Christmas period though, it being the season of goodwill, I’m not sure eked is the right verb – I suspect they’ll fast disappear when friends and family recognise just how good Madeira is and how well it performs with food!
Henriques & Henriques 20 Years Old Terrantez – paler than the Malvasia, it’s light tawny with a saffron rim. The nose is lifted, with spicy chutney, tobacco and just a hint of tomato plant, all of which follow through on a very well structured palate. A thrust of bracing acidity makes for a terrifically long, fine finish threaded with subtly contrasting sweet and sour notes of tobacco, marzipan and fruit chutney. Great tang – would be top with Montgomery’s or Keen’s cheddar.
Henriques & Henriques 20 Years Old Malvasia – dark tawny, almost mahogany brown, with a richer timbre to its sweet and spicy palate with dates, tamarind and treacle toffee well balanced by mouthwatering acidity. Has been slipping down ever so nicely with mince pies, also chocolate. It’s flavour profile would brilliantly compliment treacle tart or sticky toffee pudding, while its acidity would cut through the richness, so you could have more!?!
With thanks to Niklas Mad About Madeira Jörgensen who gave me the heads up on the Terrantez, having discovered it during his five week stay on the island. You can read about Niklas’ adventures here on Roy Hersh’s website For the Love of Port (and Madeira!)
Wishing you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. The Wine Detective will be on holiday from 25th to 27th December but normal service resumes on 28 December and, during next week’s run up to New Year, watch this space for my stars of the year from Australia, the Loire, Portugal and South Africa.