First taste: Niepoort Bioma Vinha Velha Vintage Port 2009

Last week I wrote up my first stand out ports from the Big Fortified Tasting – two outstanding mature examples – Graham’s 1952 Single Harvest Tawny & Warre’s Private Cellar 1963 Vintage Port.

Today’s example is a vintage port which fair bristles with youthful energy. How I wish I could press the fast forward button to taste it in all its mature glory! It is the third consecutive release of Niepoort’s single vineyard vintage port (known as Pisca, after the vineyard, in its maiden release).

I’ve always found this port to be quite singular and this is no exception. Though it’s plenty powerful, it has a vinous (table wine like) “slim” quality about it. The fluid way that it moves in the glass. Its pools of fruit – black currant and berry – very pure, with a scent of violets. The fine, powdery tannins. Plus there’s an old vine intensity and glow, a melded minerality, which it currently wears to the fore, armour-like. But it radiates potential. I’m already looking forward to seeing how this intense port unravels over time.

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